An 8mm film transfer tutorial to
ALARM YOU
and then ARM YOU
with Dirty Little Trade Secretsof
Super 8, 8mm, and 16mm film transfer industry.  

 
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Bruce Mayfield MBA, MSPsy, BSCS
Computer Scientist and Digital Archivist
doing business as (d.b.a.)
Film-to-DVD.com & Film-to-Video.com
Film-to-Blu-ray.com

"BUYER BE AWARE to be a BUYER BEWARE™"
OF
Dirty Little Trade Secrets!™
Old Chinese proverb:
"Be careful of what you ask for, you may get it!"
I like to add..
"And you may "pay for it" -- several times!
"™

"Can you please put my home movies on DVD?
By the time you read this page, you will question
the wisdom of ONLY asking that question.

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" are NOT interested in what you really NEED;
 They are only interested in 2 things:
1) What THEY want YOU to "ASK FOR" and
2) What HOW MUCH they can "ASK FOR"!

What gives me the right -- and expertise --
to be an industry "whistle-blower"?

I am a Computer Scientist and a Digital Archivist --
trained in advance digital technologies, data structures, and digital media.
Digital video format architecture, CODEC behavior, image storage
are just part of what I must know
to BEST server my clients.

HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR ACCOMPLISHMENTS

As 16mm and 8mm film transfer subcontractors and preservationist, we have indirect client affiliation with FOX, NBC and PBS.
Other commercial interests -- include many private movie ventures and societies.
As such, we have worked with some of the oldest movie films in the US and with movie films
that can only be termed “national treasures” -- a few of them "Legendary" -- as follow:

  • Admiral Byrd’s 1935 expedition to Antarctica (16mm) National treasure owned by private investor.
  • Expedition into the Nyragongo Volcano in 1958  (8mm) -one of the first ever filmed - National treasure owned by private investor.
  • 1940 Ringling Circus archives  (16mm) National treasure owned by private investor.
  • Pre-Modern Indigenous People of Taiwan and Philippines  (8mm) -- shot by the first missionaries to those areas – pre WWII -- the oldest films known to exist of the indigenous people of Taiwan and Philippines. (National Archives: Taiwan and the Philippines).
  • "Oldest" known films of Tucson, Arizona  (16mm) -- kept in "deep freeze" for over 50 years.
  • First Auto Races on the Beach  of Daytona Beach (National treasure owned by private investor).
  • Emperor of Japan -- personal news correspondent's Pre-WWII World-wide Film Report (16mm) (National treasure of Japan - private investor) – tour of all national powers -- in preparation for WWII and
  • 1942 Philippines’ Los Banos Japanese Prison Rescue  (16mm) (public domain) largest “last minute” prison rescue in WWII history -- 1,200 POWs) and saw what living skeletons the same Emperor of Japan made of the people of Taiwan and Philippines -- and US Soldiers.
  • National Archives of both the US and England  (8mm) -- recently "declassified" footage "of interest" by both the US Defense Department  and Scotland Yards -- for national security. This historical footage is being studied, frame-by-frame, by 2 major universities.

We have produced historical films for countless cities and towns, fire departments, football teams, State and Federal government archives, hundreds of hours on Vietnam, declassified ballistic missile test on high speed film, etc. -- the list goes on, now, for about 20 years.

We have earned our right to stand on our own merit --
by virtue of our 1) Education, 2) Experience, 3) Achievement -- say nothing of our 4) Integrity --
A) to report the truth about our industry AND
B) to deliver what we promise.

We "Lead the Industry in NEW TECHNOLOGY"... with our LATEST INVENTION
Media-Player
Drives

We "adapt" memory and storage devices of all kinds (examples above) to create our "Media-Player™ Drives.
We call this our Technology-Adaptation
Service .(Note the Buffalo Nickel is in all photos for relative sizing)

BECAUSE THEY ARE SMALLER -- Memory cards and flash drives are "adapted" as Media-Player
Small-Drives
BECAUSE THEY ARE LARGER -- Hard drives and SSDs are "adapted" as Media-Player
Large-Drives

Media-Player™ Drives can be created in 3 CONFIGURATIONS:


1) Media-Player™ Large-Drive™  - OVER 64Gb: for Solid State Drives (SSD) and Hard Drives (HDD) drives (Far Left)
2)
Media-Player™ Small-Drive™  - 64Gb or less: for Memory Cards and Flash Drives (Center)
3) Media-Player™ Card-in-a-Flash Drive™ (Far Right):

NOTE: Card-in-a-Flash Drive™ is our MOST popular "Swiss Army Knife" of Media-Player™ Small Drives™
Physically it is 1) a "memory card" and 2) a "USB adapter" – which effectively converts it to 3) a "flash drive". (Far Right)

Media-Player™ Small-Drives™ contain:
1) DVD Disk-Image Master-Disc™ that U-Play&Copy&Burn™ - a virtual disc -- for ANY computer or HDTV; and
2) Social-Media™ Master-Files™ that U-Edit&Play&Upload™ -- in H.264/MPEG-4: YouTube, Facebook, etc.: and,
3) "Media player" (i.e,. video file, DVD, and DISC-Image player) -- pre-installed to run from the Media-Player on PC or Mac; and,
you can distribute it without copyright violations - to friends and family -- who can "help each other to use the same application".
4) Media-Player Helper™ Tutorial

Media-Player™ Large-Drive™ contain:
All the above -- setup to "Drag & Drop"  -- to make new "Small-Card devices.
Digital-Film™ Primal Master-Files™  that U-Edit&Archive&Copy™ -- the digital equivalent of your original film -- only better; and
Blu-ray Disc-Image Master-Disc™ that U-Play&Copy&Burn™ - for HDTV - True H.264HD.

What are Media-Player™ Drives -- and why are they different from other "memory and storage" devices?

Click to show or hide details:

Dumb-Drives™ --  "do nothing but store stuff"™.

Most "Super 8mm film transfer mills" give you a "Dumb-Drive"with a "video file(s)" on the drive.
1) You are on your own -- to "figure out" how to use the file.
2) You are on your own -- to find applications that will work with the file.

If you want to "see" your "video file", you have to "hunt up" an application to play your video.
Sometimes you need one application for each type of video data structure you purchase.
One for the MPEG-4. One for the DV, etc.
Then you need to go through a "leaning curve" for each applications.
All this is "hard enough" for you, today - but what about 10 years from now -- for someone else

Sharing gets messy! Leaving a "home movie" archive is HARD!
If you give -- or leave -- "friends and family" copies of your video files, some of them will have Mac computers some will have PC computers.
and all of them may have a different "version" computer and operating system -- then as they do now. 

Withe a "Dumb-Drive"™ -- they -- now or then -- are "on their own" -- just like you!
In the end, "the hassle" is not worth the "hassle"; and
Your family film transfer archive will be lost -- all because of the "Dumb-Drive"

Smart-Drives™ - "1) do stuff and 2) store stuff".

Our philosophy is that a "film transfer video archive" drive -- a "Smart-Drive™" should:
1) Have everything needed to "play the video archive"  -- on any computer.
2) Be an integration of "video" and "video player" - for easy use.
3) Have only one application -- to play ALL the video data structures on it -- with exception only for "computer display limitations".
4) Facilitate "self-duplication" -- so that you can re-create it and share it -- with as many people, on as many different devices as possible.
5) Contain a truly helpful "help" system -- which interacts with the Internet.

Our Media-Player™ Drive is a "Smart-Drive™" -- a STATE-OF-THE-ART “transport & play™ drive" which contains:
1) your "library" of Disk-Image Master-Disc™ and
2) your "library" of Social-Media™ Master-Files™ and
3) a "Media player" (i.e,. video file, DVD, and DISC-Image player)
-- pre-installed to run from the Media-Player on PC or Mac;
-- that YOU can distribute it without copyright violations - to friends and family
-- who can "all help each other to use the same application"; and
4) A “media player” installer for PC and Mac; and,
5) Media-Player Helper™ -- a tutorial -- for using all the above -- that stays on the Media-Player™ Drive itself.

NOTE: I can NOT overemphasize HOW IMPORTANT 3, 4, and 5 above are -- for the survival and enjoyment of your home movies.
It puts everyone "on the same page" and "keeps them there" -- with focus on "content" NOT "technology".

Our Media-Player™ "Large-Drive™" is a STATE-OF-THE-ART “transport and play” drive which contains:
ALL THE ABOVE PLUS...
6) Digital-Film™ Primal Master-Files™ , and
7) Blu-ray DISC-Image™ -- ONLY if you ordered "physical Blu-ray Disc(s)".

NOTE: Blu-ray disc technology is tied to HDTV technology -- which computers do not have. Blu-ray discs will NOT play on any "media player"..
Virtual-Blu-ray™ disc are used to burn physical Blu-ray Disc -- and require a Blu-ray Burner.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Your Digital-Film™ PRIMAL Master-File™
is the single most important video file IN YOUR ARCHIVE. 
IT REPLACES YOUR ORIGINAL FILM. THAT'S WHY WE CALL IT "DIGITAL-FILM™".
IT IS THE ORIGIN OF ALL OTHER FILES AND DISCS. THAT'S WHY WE CALL IT "PRIMAL".

What can you do with your Media-Player™Drive
When you "double-click" on the "media player" application -- on the Media-Player™ Drive -- it come to life!
You can “play” your Media-Player™ – like having a DVD and DVD player on a “card”.

That is only the beginning! The "Media-Player Help" tutorial shows how...

You can "BURN YOUR OWN DVDS" -- from the Media-Player™ Drive -- on a Mac or PC with a DVD burner.
You can make more Media-Player™ drives, by copying it to blank memory cards, flash drives, hard drives, and SSDs -- for "friends and family"
You can use your Media-Player™ with any DVD player "app" -- that accepts "Video_TS" or "H.264/MPEG4" files.
You can install your Media-Player™ on ANY PC or Mac computer -- to create a Media-Player™ Computer Center -- to do ALL THE ABOVE.
You can do ALL THE ABOVE, without copyright violations!

NOTE: You do NOT have to use the "media player" application we provide you.
Media-Player™ drives also work with "any" video player applications -- that work with
1) video "disk image" files
2) Video_TS files
3) Quicktime files (DV / DVPro25 /DVCam)
4) H.264 / MP4 files
5) MPEG-2 files
6) DVD discs
Media-Player™ Drive works with ALL THE ABOVE -- which are part of our "basic" product mix - to protect our clients.

NOTE: File formats like H.264 HD, Apple ProRes and Apple Intermediate, raw video, etc.,  are custom orders for Digital-Film™ Primal Master-Files™
NOTE: Blu-ray discs and Virtual-Blu-ray are specialty orders and hardware specific to play ONLY on HDTV equipment.

We now offer Media-Player™ product "upgrade" paths to our "old clients" -- or to clients of  competitors -- who have  "digital" video products. Ask.

SINCE WE HAVE "REDONE" THEIR DIRTY LITTLE WORK --
WE LEARNED THEIR DIRTY LITTLE SECRETS!

HOW WE LEARNED THE "LITTLE SECRETS": Realizing much of the equipment adapted from the "large format" film transfer industry is ill-suited for "small format film", we literally "trashed" much of the equipment that most companies now brag about using. We were forced into creative testing -- trial and error -- invention and re-invention -- driven by integrity -- until we "got it right". 

We learned the "right way, the hard way"; but we did not know "the dirty way".

HOW WE LEARNED "THE DIRTY": Until we got into 'redoing" the work of "other studios" -- for domestic clients -- we did NOT realize that there is a side of the film transfer industry -- the domestic market -- that does NOT strive for "high commercial integrity", but rather strive with "intent" that, in my opinion, "is criminal".

Bottom Line: As an "industry whistle blower",
I "have earned" -- and I "continue to earn" --  "the right" to tell you...

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #1:

The Shelf-life of a "writable" DVD-R/+R is ONLY 2 to 5 years.
Neither a "writable" DVD nor a "writable" Blu-ray disc can be consider "archive worthy".

STILL "Want my movie film (archived) on DVD or Blu-ray"?

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" will put your home movies on DVD or even Blu-ray disc -- doing exactly what they are asked to do.

What they don't tell you is criminal, in my opinion.

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" don't tell you, that your disc has a shelf life of only 5 years before there is a risk of "data drop-out" which can result in artifacts (i.e., little square blocks appearing in your video, or frozen frames, or even frozen video). Once this happens, the disc is soon "dead" with no recourse or solution.

Unless there is a "master digital video file' in a safe place -- to be used to create a new discs -- then the old DVD disc WILL BE LOST --
along with the loss of your family's home movie film legacy.

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" don't tell you, to "keep your "movie film" --  because, after 5 years, you may need it again". Since most people "trash their movie film" or the "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" do it for them" -- upon delivery of their DVDs or Blu-ray discs -- in 5 short years -- most people realize -- too late -- that their simple request -- to "put my home movies on DVDs" -- was a request for the ultimate destruction of "the only" and "the last" living images of their most beloved family members.

Clients did not ask for what they needed -- only what they "think" they wanted.
Think AGAIN!

Clients need an "archive". An "archive" is a "long term" concept -- spanning decades -- versus the "short-term" ideas of a "backup" or a temporary "transport medium" --  less than 5 years for video data and 2 years for computational and ASCII character data.

Most film transfer mills DO NOT want you to know that DVDs have an unexpectedly short shelf life of 2 to 5 years. Their whole production process focuses on the use of silver & dye based DVD-R technology -- and nothing else -- to archive your movie films. When I say "archive" I mean, "To store ALL of the original image, of each and every frame of the original image -- for a long, long, time."

Open the details to this window (click below) to learn about why "archive gold" type discs -- with a shelf life of 200 years -- have NOT been used
and why "video format" is a MORE important consideration than "media longevity" -- 
at least, for those people -- who wish to "be careful what they ask for"...

This windows also gives you the actual tests and articles to back our claims -- about the longevity of DVDs -- 2 years for data; 5 years for images.

Click to show or hide details:
Reference: Computer World: January 2006: Primarily deals with CD-R technology, but includes DVDs in its warning to both data and image archivist in 1st paragraph: Computerworld article

Since this article was written, we have been able to sample our own DVDs from 6 years ago, and find an alarming failure rate. However, creating DVDs -- from our own client's old MiniDV master tapes -- as far back as 1999 -- has proven very successful.

All hard drives from this same era have fail or are now obsolete -- due to old FAT16 or Fat32 with IDE/ATA interfaces -- same as "floppy drive".

NOTE: AVI files were developed around Fat16 and FAT 32 architecture, too, which is why AVI files are no longer supported by Microsoft.

The very integrity of CD-R, DVD-R (and, we can assume Blu-ray) technology -- which are chemically very similar -- has been challenged by media experts worldwide.  Some experts -- like Kurt Gerecke, a physicist and storage expert at IBM Deutschland GmbH -- are now reporting that the life of some optical media (CD-R and DVD-R) to be only 2 to 5 years.

These statements are clearly backed by longevity tests on "dye based" platter technology -- CD-R, DVD-R and DVD+R --  conducted by the National Institute of Standards and Technology.  Results showed that failure rates for dye based DVDs with silver backing (originally thought to have a long life) were far worse than anyone had realized.

The fall-out from this study is that Computer Industry and the Federal Government -- have ditched DVD-R, DVD+R, and CD-R -- and NOW Blu-ray Disc -- for "archiving" any type of digital data or digital imagery. (see reference below-right).

 
Reference:
Results of CD-R and DVD-R longevity tests.
Journal of Research of the National Institute of Standards and Technology --
Volume 109, Number 5, September-October 2004
 
See an HTML conversion of the study paper.
(A link to the original is at the end)

Do not confuse "backups"  with "archives".  A client of ours who is a government employee provided us with the links above; He says that some government agencies -- including the Library of Congress -- are now giving caution to their employees on the use of silver backed dye based optical technology for "archives".

Does this warning extend to Blu-ray discs?

What we do know about Blu-ray technology, is that it uses "blue laser technology" and DVDs use "red laser" technology -- on basically the same type disc materials.

What we do know about Blu-ray is, blue laser technology can write data tracks closer together -- on a DVD sized platter.

But "double or triple density" dose NOT mean the data will last any longer!

What we do know is, there are NO longevity studies for Blu-ray discs - to my knowledge -- and I have asked, believe me!

Blu-ray Technology "good or bad" is a Mute Point:

What we also know, it there is a "market shift" away from Blu-ray disc "domestically" -- toward Solid State Drive (SSD) technology, which includes "small drives" like Memory Cards and Flash Drives -- all of which have become "every day" items -- which continue to drop in price.

The "assumption" by "sales people" -- That Blu-ray "is better", in terms of longevity is odd, in my opinion, in light of the traumatic effect of longevity studies on DVD discs -- made from very similar materials as Blu-ray disc. If we follow logic, instead of some sales pitch, we are forced to form both the opinion and assumption -- that Blu-ray disc longevity is "like" DVD disc longevity. For all practical purposes, a Blu-ray disc may be "more like" a DVD -- only with a Blu-ray label -- too, much like a DVD -- too much more -- than we would "like" to think -- or, for that matter, the disc manufactures would "like us to think". 

Archive Gold Discs:

As a result, of "too much thinking in the market place",  the disc manufacturing industry has developed an "archive gold" type technology, which claims varying longevity thresholds, with some giving themselves as high as a 200 year longevity rating -- or your money back --  with proof of purchase and proof of ID, of course;(

As of June 2011 -- before gold went through the roof in price --  the cheapest "archive gold" type Blu-ray disc, that could be purchased on the Internet, cost $15 plus the cost of shipping, roughly $5 dollars -- for a total "low price of $20 each. Bulk purchase could reduce that to as low as $15 each, after shipping.  My point is, "archive gold" is expensive -- especially when you must consider waste from "bad-burns", "failed burns", "power outages" -- waste that is always associated with the duplication process -- for any number of the most "dog-gone" reasons. This factor puts "archive gold" expenses right up there with the cost of (more forgiving) Flash Drive, SDHC card, and hard drive prices.

NOTE: The price of gold are still "through the roof" in 2013 and the prices above are assumed to be "too low" at this time.

Near-substitutes and Alternative Technologies and Strategies:

Given the fact that prices for hard drive technology has plummeted over the last year,  you can now buy a 500Gb hard drive for roughly the same cost of buying 3 or 4 "archive gold" type Blu-ray discs -- which will store only 25Gb each.

In the ComputerWorld warning -- on the use of CD-R, DVD-R and DVD+R for "backups" -- corporate wisdom is to "back up" your "backups" every 2 years -- for data -- and every 5 years for digital images, like videos and pictures. As for "archiving", their word of wisdom was: use nothing but metal particle magnetic digital tape for an archive -- and keep at least one "archive backup" of that.

What they did not address, what the "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" don't tell you,  is the fact that all video data -- expressed as a "video format" --  is NOT created equal; that in fact, some video "formats" are crippled by design and "very lossy" -- like MEPEG-2, the default format of a DVD.

It is silly -- say nothing of expensive -- to use "archive gold type" technology to "archive" low quality video.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST:  The Blu-ray Scam

Film transfer mills don't tell you this one for sure. The victim in this scam thinks s/he is buying a High Definition (HD) Product Blu-ray product for an HDTV -- but instead pays a premium price for a "fake" Blu-ray.

The Scam: The film transfer mill takes a DVD -- using MPEG-2 format -- and copies the MPEG-2 disk image onto to a Blu-ray Disc. This is fast and easy to do. Since Blu-ray technology is backwards compatible with DVD technology, the MPEG-2 video "plays just fine" -- when plugged into a Blu-ray player. The Blu-ray disc -- with DVD quality video -- is then sold to the victim as a "Blu-ray" disc.  The finishing touch to this scam, is that the "film transfer mill"  uses a cheap "gold tinted" disc -- which are manufactured as an "archive gold" "knock-off disc".  In reality, this "knock-off disc" is a generic Blu-ray with a "gold tint" to the face of the disc and has the word "gold" somewhere on the packaging -- which is deceptive advertising, in my opinion. In the end, the "film transfer mill" has used a cheap to produce, inferior video format, and cheap "knock-off" media to make a huge margin of profit -- for minimal work.  The victim can view their movie film images on their new HDTV, knows something is wrong, but can not put a finger on it. If they confront the "film transfer mill" they are just told the problem is they have "crummy movie film". This scam can be detected using a computer - if the victim knows what to look for.

Reducing all this information to a point -- once people know "the truth", they are reluctant to buy an expensive "archive gold" type disc to "archive" lowest grade video formats -- or even to "set themselves up" for a Blu-ray scam. Knowing "what to ask for" is second only to, knowing "who to ask".

Do you still want you movie films "archived" -- to ONLY an "off the shelf" DVD or Blu-ray?

What can do we do?

We can capture your movie film, as raw video, into a format best matched to your needs -- like Apple ProRes, DVCPRO, DVCPRO HD, Digital Video (DV). All these formats are 1) full frame for all frames, 2) higher resolution than the resolution of your original movie film, and 3)  used in editing software on 64 bit, multi-core, state-of-the-art PC and Mac computers. Using one these formats, after Re-Colorization of the images, we then make Blu-ray and DVD Virtual Movie Disc ™, and then, physical discs.

What can YOU do?

Some people find they have to buy a new computer -- just to work with some of the formats above.  What is  more, because "family members" do NOT have computers that WILL also work with some of  these video formats, some of these same formats are a "bad choice" as an "archive format" because they can NOT be passed to the next generation. I cover the pros and cons of formats -- and "best-matching" a film format to a video format. 

MiniDV tapes, a good "archive medium" for the "mainstream" who ALREADY OWN MiniDV or HDV camcorders -- which read Digital Video (DV) format

NOTE: DV, DVCam, DVPro 25 digital video format are all basically the same format.  
These "formats" were originated on MiniDV tape (see left) and D8 tape.

BUT DO NOT CONFUSE "video tape" with "video formats".

Although the "video tape" has met with market decline, the "video format"  is still very widely used by the public -- on single and dual core, 32 bit (older) computers, and 64 bit multi-core processors -- for use with the broadest selection of editing software on both PC and Mac computers -- new and old.

DV format is still used by many news professionals due to its flexible properties to be
1) up-scaled to HDTV -- H.264 HD format; and
2) down-scaled to Webcasting, -- H.264/ MPG4 format; and
3) used as an "archive" -  when retained on MiniDV tape -- or Disc Drive.

As "non-computer" archive solution, I suggest clients -- who already have the camcorder -- store their "tapes" in a "lock box" with their MiniDV  or HDV Camcorder.

NOTE: Newer Camcorders -- using SDHC cards and AVCHD format -- can NOT satisfy these criteria --
as Solid State technology is extremely vulnerable to static shock AND the format is both "partial frame" and "lossy".

Later, in my tutorial, I cover which formats are the "best match" for your "small format" movie film. 
Right how, just know, "bigger is NOT better" -- as "miss-matching" your physical film to a digital format
(i.e., like HDTV -- H.264 HD -- to Regular 8mm film) DOES create digital artifacts.

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" do NOT want you to know about

THE CURRENT VIDEO TECHNOLOGY SHIFT

Dear Grandpa and Grandma...

Before you can know what is "out-dated",
you have to see what is "up-to-date".

Dirty Little Trade Secret: What "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" don't want you to know...
(click below --  for the good, bad, and UGLY!)

Click to show or hide details:

Transfer Mills do NOT want you to know

LAST DECADE

Disc technologies – DVDs, Blu-rays, Hard Drives, and
Tape technologies -- MiniDV Tape and HDV tape
replaced VHS tape and VHS players.

THIS DECADE
DVD disc and Blu-ray disc and ALL tapes are being replaced by
Solid State Drives (SSD),
Flash Drive (FD)
Secure Digital "Memory Card" (SDHC and SDXC)” types; and,
Internet Video Streaming ("cloud") technology -- over the Internet -- like NetFlix, Apple iTunes Store, etc.

A whole new generation of people – from grade-school through college and beyond – are now watching movies on
A whole new generation of technology -- 
                 from the very big -- HDTV and "projector HDTV"
                 to the very small -- iPhones, iPods, and iPads
                 or “like” "hand-held video devices"
                
on "
THE CLOUD" (i.e., the Internet).

These "people" include YOUR KIDS, GRAND-KIDS -- AND ALL YOUR FUTURE GENERATIONS!

In your mind, anyone should be happy -- just to be able to "watch" their "home movies" on a DVD.

BUT...who would have ever thought...

"These people" want to "SHARE" --  their home movies --
on something called "Social Media"  -- like FACE BOOK, YOUTUBE, etc.,
with hundreds -- IF NOT MILLIONS -- of ALL their "friends"!!!

"HOME MOVIES ARE not JUST FOR HOME any more!"™

Dick Tracy and his "wrist-banded TV-phone" -- is yesterday's News!

Who would have guessed...
"These people" use
"hand-held video devices" -- like cell phones -- to connect to an HDTV set -- like "a DVD play deck" --
allowing access to "Movies on Demand" from over the Internet –
from outfits like NetFlix , iTunes Store, etc.

"These people" -- even their DVD / Blu-ray / "Game" players are ALSO WIRELESS -- for the "Cloud"!
Know anyone with a Sony Play Station 3 (PS3) or Play Station 4 (PS4)?

What ALL "These people"  and their "hand-held video devices" use -- to read and write data -- are
“Solid State Drives (SSD)”, “Flash Drives”, and “Memory Cards (SDHC and SDXC)”.

Yes, but they are still "buying DVDs", you say!
Well, "KINDA....
When
"these people"  DO "buy a DVD", they also "buy the right" to
1) "view it from the cloud" or
2) "copy it ONCE to a hard drive"; however,
3) THEY now regard the physical DVD as an "emergency backup".

Meanwhile, THEY watch their movie on "whatever" device they choose...at the moment --
wherever and with whomever... ANYWHERE.

WHICH BRINGS US TO WHAT IS "OUT-DATED".

What ALL these "devices" do NOT use -- are DVD and Blu-ray discs!  (with few exceptions -- like PS3 and PS4)

Seen any DVD Movie Rental Stores lately?
Physical DVD disc and, yes, even physical Blu-ray discs -- are on the "down hill slide" in the product life-cycle --
soon to be abandoned "relics of technology" -- just like Music CD discs.

In the last 3 years, we can add MiniDV digital tape and Digital 8 (D8) tape to the list of dying.
NOTE: This does not mean "something BETTER has replaced them"?

From a Computer Science stand point, from a "digital archivalist" standpoint, No!

While YOU and I still buy DVD and Blu-ray discs --
because we own DVD/Blu-ray players, and
because we FINALLY know how to use these “older”, “disc” technologies;
a very large number of the "new generation" don't care if they have DVDs or not. They can "take them or leave them".
 

STATE-OF-THE-ART -- this Decade -- looks like this:
 

 

 

 

NOTE: We sell alot of DVD disc! However, we will NOT sell them exclusively. We protect our clients with "Media-Diversity".

Summary

Writable DVD  disc "GO BAD" --  After only 2 years (for data) and after only 5 years for video.
DVD and Blu-ray "physical discs" are going away -- the same way Music CD discs and VHS tapes "went away".

Last decade's technology: 
1) DVD and Blu-ray (PHYSICAL) discs
2) bulky, slow hard drives (HDD)

This decade's technology:
1) Solid State technology -- like Flash Drives, Memory Cards, and SSDs (Solid State Drives)
2) The Internet "Cloud"
3) Very small, very fast hard drives (HDD)
4) Hybrid hard drives (part SSD part HDD)

 

Still "only want your home movies on DVD"?

Why do "film transfer mills want you to use DVDs?

TRUTH:
DVDs are "cheap" (25 to 30 cents each) -- with high margins!
Blu-rays disc -- sometimes made from DVD formats (i.e., "fake blu-rays") -- are "cheap" ($1) -- with very high margins!

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™", do NOT want you to know the latest developments in media and technology -
BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO BUY DVDS!
They want to keep you in "last decade technology" -
BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO BUY DVDS!

They do not want you to know about "this decade's technology" -
BECAUSE THEY WANT YOU TO BUY DVDS!

Bottom Line: Asking ONLY for a DVD -- of your home movies now – is almost like asking for a VHS tape -- 5 years ago. 
Asking for a DVD ONLY, is a dead end, death sentence for your "home movies" .

Be careful what you ask for!

Feel like "the last person on earth -- to find out?

Media-Diversity™
Last Decade Vs. This Decade


 

NEWS UPDATE:

This Decade's computers -- and hand-held digital devices -- DO NOT HAVE DVD DISC DRIVES!
They have a universal Memory Card Port -- maybe a USB-3 port -- and a "WIRELESS" (Internet) "CLOUD" connection.

JUST IN CASE YOU HAVE BEEN WATCHING YOUR VHS Player TOO LONG -- AND HAVE NOT NOTICED...
here are a few other "technology shifts" that have or ARE taking place:

SHIFT 1: This Decade: Blu-ray DISC-Image™,
Last Decade: Blu-ray Physical-disc
   

SHIFT 2: This Decade: DVD DISC-Image™      
 
Last Decade: DVD
Physical-disc™         

SHIFT 3:
This Decade: Hard Drive, Flash Drive, and Memory Cards
Last Decade: MiniDV and Digital8 Digital Tape

SHIFT 4:
This Decade: Social-Media
"Cloud" files -- H.264/MPEG-F "streaming video files" --  for Social Media, YouTube, etc.

SHIFT: This Decade: Media-Player™ Drives -- "smart-drives -- that "do stuff" and "go places"
Last Decade: "dumb-drives" -- that just "store stuff" -- and just "sit there"

The "Future Generation of Technology" is here -- and now! 
If you want to "pass-on" your home movies and family film history,
you must DIVERSIFY your home movies to play on BOTH ...

"Last decade's technology" -- that YOU USE every day and
"This decade's technology" -- that THEY USE every day -- and all THEIR tomorrows!

TO FIND OUT "WHAT THE HECK" THESE PRODUCTS ARE, OPEN THIS WINDOW...

Click to show or hide details:

You can now have BOTH  "Digital Media Diversity" –
1) to protect (i.e., to "archive") your "home movies" and
2) to enjoy your "home movies" -- for the whole family and all your friends:

Adaptive-Technology™ Service:
For clients who send me their hard drive, SSD, flash drive, or Secure Digital memory card (SDHC or SDXC),
I "adapt" them all to work "smarter" as Media-Player
"drives.

To keep thing simple,
BECAUSE THEY ARE SMALLER -- Memory cards and flash drives and adaptors are "adapted" to Media-Player Small-Drives
BECAUSE THEY ARE LARGER -- Hard drives and SSD are "adapted" to Media-Player
Large-Drives


WHAT is a Media-Player Drive?:
As the name implies, it is a "drive" -- of some kind -- that "plays your videos". It is a "drive" setup for -- and dedicated to -- that purpose.
Software is installed and ready to use. Video files are in place -- ready to be played. "Help menus" are readily available. 
Yes, it does require a "computer" BUT -- it is independent of any type or brand of computer -- working on both PC and Mac platforms.
In short -- it is a "smart drive" dedicated to playing your videos -- on any computer; any place.
NOTE: Soon, our "Media-Player Drives will be Apple iOS friendly.

WHAT is a "DISC-Image"?:  A "disc image" -- as the name implies -- is" the PICTURE of a DISC".
 That "picture" can be "burned" onto a physical disc -- which is the way we make your Physical-disc -- for both DVDs and Blu-rays.
That "picture" can be "played" any one of many "media player" applications for both Mac and PC computers.

"Virtual disc" is another name for "disk image file".  A "disc image" is a "data-only structure" (i.e., virtual) that "act like" a physical medium.

For Example: A "Virtual-DVD disc" is a data-structure that "acts like" a "physical DVD". In the Mac computer world, if you "double-click" on a "virtual disc", it "mounts" -- just the same as -- inserting a physical DVD into the DVD drive or DVD player.  Software applications on the Mac will "play BOTH a (physical) DVD disc" and a "DVD disc image". On a Mac this is "automatic".

(NOTE: We provide software for both PC and Mac computers - to play BOTH DVD Physical-disc™ and "DVD DISC-Image™ disc". It also plays "raw video files", and "Qucktime" files.  ()NOTE: You may also use many other "apps" that you may have.

In the software (applications) world: For years now, the software industry has been using "virtual disks" for distribution of software.  We have all "downloaded" a software "package" or "update" and then let the computer "install it".  We have all used virtual disks -- and did not even known it.  On a Mac, you actually have to "mount the disk image" -- like a hard drive or DVD -- and then "drag and drop" the software application from the "virtual disk" on to your "hard drive".

In the video world, "virtual video disks" are used to play or download movie content across the Internet. NetFlix, iTunes, etc. are using "virtual video disc" for mass distribution of audio and video. Every kid on the planet knows how to "download" a movie or play a YouTube video clip.  These are ALL applications using "virtual discs" or "cloud files" -- they are NOT the same.

Again, you only have to look at what iPod and  iTunes has done to the CD market (remember Music CD discs?) to see what is NOW happening to the DVD disc.  Do you feel like an "old-timer" yet?

IF A WHOLE NEW GENERATION OF PEOPLE AND TECHNOLOGY USE "VIRTUAL DISCS",
WHY SHOULD YOU NOT HAVE YOUR HOME MOVIES ON A VIRTUAL DISC, TOO? 

Especially IF you could still have DVD and Blu-ray for about the same price, too?

BEST KEPT SECRET:  Right now, I offer ALL the products above for a price competitive with what many "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" will charge you for  "just a DVD".  Who knew?! 

Read my website, get smart about what you -- and the new generation of your family "need" -- and you can take advantage of our current marketing promotion -- which gives you many of the products above, free -- when purchasing our basic product line -- which, yes, includes DVDs!

Click on the FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions -- at any time to see our "product line".

When you see the words, "small format movie film" you should think the words "slower speed" movie film. This is one of the most important concepts you will get from my website that other websites will shun.

 

What does "slow speed film" mean for you? 
This is a "must read" summary of how "film transfer" works for "small format films". 
Click for more...

Click to show or hide details:

"Small gauge movie film" means, small format movie film (i.e., Standard 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm movie film)
which was ORIGINALLY SHOT AT 16 OR 18 frames per second (i.e., 16 fps or 18 fps).

"Slow speed" means the movie film was originally shot -- and meant to be watched -- at 16 frames per second (fps) or18fps.

"Slower means", MORE TIME ELAPSED BETWEEN EACH EXPOSED FRAME OF FILM! There is a world of difference between
1) film exposed at 1/24 second -- fast film and
2) film exposed at 1/18 or 1/16 of a second.

WHAT THIS MEANS, to "synchronized" 18 frames per second FILM to a 30 frames per second VIDEO stream, you must duplicate and insert 2 extra frames of VIDEO for every 3 frames of FILM.

To understand "slow and small" format film,
you have to also understand -- compare and contrast --
"fast and large" format film.

"Larger format movie films" are OPTICAL SOUND FILMS: 16mm SOUND, 35mm SOUND and 70mm SOUND above, run at 24fsp.
The entire "LARGE FORMAT" movie film industry is standardized around film, of all sizes,
that is  shot at a speeds of 24 frames per second (i.e., 24fps).
To "synchronize" 24 fps film to a 30 fps video signal,
the equivalent of 1 extra frame of "VIDEO" must be "created" -- every 4th frames of "film". PERIOD.

THERE ARE 3 METHODS USED TO TRANSFER FILM -- OF ALL SPEEDS AND GAUGES:

1) Mid-1900 methods of "telecine equipment" -- something many "transfer mills" brag about still having -- actually duplicated and inserted every 4th frame of FILM into the VIDEO STREAM. At 24fps, this method works OK, and much of the old movie film stock seen on late-night TV used this method. HOWEVER, there was a "judder" in the motion -- a small pause -- every 4 and 5th frame of VIDEO were the same -- which could be observed in "fast motion scenes" as "judder".
THIS METHOD ONLY WORKS WITH 24 fps movie film.
Using this method with 16 fps or 18 fps creates PROFOUND JUDDER;
HOWEVER, many "transfer mills" still use TELECINE "pull-down" technology for small format film --
simply because the bought an old 24fps telecine and modified to with "small format film".

2) Late-1900 methods of "synchronized scanning" using a 2:3 pull-down method. This method converted 4 frames of video into 5 frames of film by duplicating "half-frames" -- called "fields" -- by duplicating frames 3 and 4 of FILM -- as interlaced images -- and then -- again -- duplicating the 4th frame of FILM as the 5th frame of VIDEO.  Video frames 3 and 4 were actually miss-matched interlaced frames -- which gave the illusion of "blurred motion". This method actually works "very good" -- ONLY with 24 fps movie film -- and is a "close second" -- as a standard for film transfer of LARGE FORMAT, 24fps FILM.
THIS METHOD ONLY WORKS WITH 24 fps movie film.
Using 2:3 pull-down with 16 fps or 18 fps creates PROFOUND "BLURRED JUDDER";
HOWEVER, many "transfer mills" still use SYNCHRONIZED SCANNING technology for "small format film".

3) Algorithmic Interpolation:  The current "state-of-the-art" method, is to capture frames film -- to video -- 1 to1 or 2 to1 or 2.5 to 1 -- without concern for synchronization.  Once digitized, this method employs a digital frame / field "digital interpolating algorithm" -- to "normalized the "captured VIDEO" to the original "real-time" shooting speed of the ORIGINAL MOVIE FILM. Using this method, the technologies of progressive scan and odd / even field interlace are unified -- become synergistic -- and because of redundant digital overlay -- the end result has technical characteristics BETTER -- than either  PROGRESSIVE SCAN or  INTERLACED video alone (more on this later).

Unlike methods #1 and #2 above, this method allows the widest range of image manipulation -- at the both the "frame and field" levels.  Thus 1) "true slow-motion", 2) "true fast-motion", 3) "better incorporation of special effects", 4) "digital frame stabilization", and 5) less video generational loss -- when transcoding to  a diverse number of digital products - from a common master file. 

Digital Algorithmic Interpolation is a 2 step process which is superior to -- but also more expensive that -- the other 2 other methods above. Thus "transfer mills" rarely use this method. They instead "hype" last century technology -- as if this century, and a new "state-of-the-art" did not exist.  Digital Algorithmic Interpolation is NEVER mentioned on most "transfer mill" sites.

Yes, we use "state-of-the-art" "Digital Algorithmic Interpolation".

WHAT'S ALL THIS GOT TO DO WITH "SLOWER", "SMALL GAUGE", "SMALL FORMAT" FILM?!

Under METHOD #1 ABOVE, you can easily see that 2/3rds of every second of video is occupied by "frozen frames".  Not only does an object in motion "freeze frequently" in time and space -- but the object suddenly "jumps frequently" from where is should NOT be -- to where it "should be" -- in time and space -- creating a double distraction. Believe it or not, I have re-done many projects which have used Method #1 -- simply because some "idiot" insisted on having "true progressive scan" video.  Method #2 is the ONLY WAY to get that; but "be careful what you ask for!".

Under METHOD #2 ABOVE, you can easily see that 2/3rds of every second of video is occupied by "blurred frozen frames".  Although "distracting", METHOD #2  is technically "better" than Method #1 -- and thus some "transfer mills" will hype a 2:3 pull-down method over a telecine method -- and charge extra for it.  I have also redone MANY of these projects for clients.

Once a "small format film" is transferred with a "2:3 pull-down pattern", the extra frame can NEVER be removed.  The ONLY remedy, is to re-capture the film again -- assuming the original film is still around -- and in a condition to endure another film transfer.

THE STANDARD METHOD FOR SMALL FORMAT, SLOW SPEED FILM TRANSFER:

Most "transfer mills" do "synchronized" film to video -- at the WRONG SPEED FOR ALL FILMS!
This "wrong speed" is actually the "right speed" -- to avoid "judder" and "blurred judder" --- 20 frames per second.
This method introduces "real-time distortion" of 10% for Super 8 film.
This method introduces "real-time distortion" of 20% for Regular 8mm film.

STATE-OF-THE-ART PROFESSIONAL STUDIOS THAT MUST WORK WITH SMALL FORMAT, SLOW SPEED FILMS
1) capture film at some 1 to 1 or 2 to 2 or 3 to 3 film to video ratio; and
2) "normalize" the images to "real-time" or 'near real-time" correction using a "digital interpolating algorithm".
NOTE:
There are times when "true real-time" speed is NOT the "best speed" for archive and post-production purposes.
More on this later.
 

That's JUST A TASTE of "What You Don't Know", (that you don't know you don't know) that Will Hurt You!

What else? Hang on to your hat!

IMPORTANT NOTE: Blu-ray Discs

Hereafter in this website, when we say "DVD", unless otherwise stated, you may assume the same principle applies to "Blu-ray".

And here is why...

Click to show or hide details:
Recently, with the technology shift to HDTV, there is a shift - industry wide -- to Blu-ray technology. Because

1) a Blu-ray disc is made basically from the same materials as a DVD disc, and
2) because "true" Blu-ray format -- H.264 BD -- throws away duplicate frames of video and uses partial frames of video as much as possible --just like the older MPEG-2 format of DVDs --
3)
we feel justified to assume the opinion on this website that
4)"generic" Blu-ray and "generic"  DVD are "kissing cousins" -- sharing many of the same attributes of longevity and common characteristics of a "lossy format".

So far, no one in the Blu-ray manufacturing community can present data that this "assumption" is incorrect -- although we keep asking -- and hoping -- that evidence to the contrary will be revealed.

Meanwhile, without data to back their claims, we must "read between the lines" of what is NOT said -- namely, "longevity tests" specific to Blu-ray disks are incomplete if they do exist.

Last but not least, Blu-ray technology is being eclipsed by "streaming video" over the Internet -- or "Cloud technology".  People seem willing to sacrifice "quality" for "variety" and "cheap" video content.


 

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #2:

"Digital Copies" are not the "Digital Equivalent" to Your Original Movie Film

"Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" sell you a "digital copy" of your movie film on DVD.  They do NOT sell you the "digital equivalent" of your movie film on DVD. Technically, that is impossible.

Film transfer mills do NOT want you to know, you need a "digital master archive" -- made directly from your original movie film. They want to sell you a DVD "copy" of your movie film. After having read Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #1, you now know why your movie film should NOT be "archived" to a DVD only - because a DVD is not an archive.

Click to show or hide details:
Right now, your original movie film is your master. In fact, there is no "OTHER COPY", of any kind, of your original movie film.

What is worse, you have almost "used it up". Your original movie film is "going bye-bye" - otherwise, you would not be reading my website.

You need the digital equivalent of your movie film - in every way - to preserve what is left of your movie film, that is to say, preserve the earliest record "moving images" of your family roots - which will forever be priceless to your progeny - unless you screw up now.

FACT: Your movie film is "high resolution" - your "digital master" should be as well.

FACT: Your movie film is made up of "full frame pictures" - thousands of complete pictures - so should your "digital master".

This is the foundational concept behind Digital-Film™ Master Files that we create for our clients..

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #3:

DVDs are not "high resolution".

If I told you I was "throwing away half of your movie film to film transfer to DVD", would you let me do it?

Well, that is exactly what "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" are doing. Each one of the "little pictures" in your movie film is made up of hundreds of "little lines". If they throw out every other "little line" to fit your movie film to a DVD, they have thrown away half of your movie film, haven't they?

That's what MPEG2 compression does.

Still want me to film transfer your movie film to DVD? Worse yet... (click for more).

Click to show or hide details:
Worse yet, just to give you the proper perspective on DVDs made by the film transfer mills, the DVDs (single layer DVDs) made on a computer are about half the resolution of DVDs (double layered DVDs) that come from the "video store", because they have a smaller capacity.

Does that mean that a DVD, made by most film transfer mills, might rival only the home-made quality of a VHS video tape? Does that mean you can forget about ever seeing the quality of your original movie film?

Yep! That's "worse yet".

Pseudo-technocrat Note: Did you ever wonder why it takes 2 DVD-Rs, made on a computer, to copy (rip or steal) 1 DVD VIDEO from the video store? (Not that YOU have ever tried to steal a DVD - but that you have just wondered about such technological things that your golf buddy mentioned to you?)

Details about MPEG2 compression and DVDs can be found in the tutorial.

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #4:

DVDs and Blu-rays are NOT made up of "full frame pictures" -- like your movie film.

In a nut shell, DVDs are made up of thousands of JPEG pictures, aren't they? "Well, not exactly". The Dirty Little Trade Secret™ is that MPEG2, the video format for video DVDs, only "starts out" with one JPEG picture (of your grandmother). That's where all similarity ends.

MPEG2 compression is aggressive. To keep the video stream small, it starts throwing away parts of the image it thinks it can "rebuild" from preceding frames. MPEG2 was made to fit tremendous amounts of data into a small space, knowing it would be "played back" on older, fairly low quality televisions which would hide a "multitude of evils" by being too low resolution to really spot the artifacts of the compression.

Much has changed since HDTV took over. However, the darling media of HDTV is Blu-ray.  Blu-ray uses H.264 BD format which is basically, MPEG-2 on steroids. Although the  format does rival the high resolutions of your original movie film, the partial frame and highly compressed characteristics of the format make is almost worthless to edit. Therefore, the format fails as an "archive worthy" format -- as does MPEG-2, for the same reason.

Why?  An "archive worthy" format is used for many things -- other than to watch on your HDTV.  It is used to capture photos. It can be resized for Webcasting on YouTube, and resized for use on iPhone type devices, and many other devices. It will be transported over networks and used on both PC and Mac computers -- to further manipulate and enhance and colorize the images -- and then narrate them, with different background music.  One day it will be transcoded into 3D video and, maybe, even in holographic applications.  MPEG-2 and H.264 formats will not "go the distance".

Click to show or hide details:
So, the first frame of your movie film - of your grandmother - is whole but compressed like a web JPEG image. Good quality if properly done.

Now, let's talk about the second, third, etc., frames (of your grandmother).  All subsequent frames (of your grandmother) are only "partial frames" (of your grandmother's eye blinking and teeth and gums smiling).

This Dirty Little Trade Secret™ becomes more shady, because what they, the film transfer mills, don't tell you is ALL duplicate frames (of your grandmother) are effectively thrown away.

Not much left of your "original movie film resolution"?
Not much left of your "original movie film frames"?
Not much left of your "original movie film" period!

Why do you think they call MPEG2 compression "lossy"?
Still want your movie film archived to DVD?

Details about MPEG2 compression and DVDs can be found in the tutorial.



Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #5:

DVDs and Blu-ray can NOT be copied to other "digital formats' without "digital artifacts".

Film transfer mills let you think that because DVD and Blu-ray are "digital" they can be transferred to other digital formats without loss.

Click to show or hide details:
In the previous Dirty Little Trade Secret™, you learned that DVD MPEG2 format throws out "every other 'little line'" of EVERY picture of your original movie film (of your grandmother); and DVD MPEG2 format throws out EVERY duplicate frame (of your grandmother); and DVD MPEG2 throws out every thing but the essentials of all partial frames (of your grandmother).

Film transfer mills would like you to believe that a video CODEC (Coder/Decoder) will magically re-create everything -- that was thrown away -- into something that rivals your original movie film? Dream on!

If you try to convert, "up-scale" (not just copy) your DVD to a Blu-ray, what will actually happen is the video CODEC will manufacture 'filler" for EVERYTHING that is "miss-matched" or 'missing" in the HD format.  This "filler" is called a "digital artifact" -- and is NOT in the original film.

If you ever sat too close to the screen at the movie theater, then you "get the picture" -- that is to say, you do NOT get any more picture -- just blur.

If you have ever tried to enlarge a newspaper picture on a copy machine, then you "get the picture" -- or NOT!

If you have ever tried to digitally enlarge a still photograph -- beyond the size of its actual pixels -- then you "get the picture" -- little square digital blocks, all over "every thing".

If you have ever tired to "zoom in" into a picture on your computer "too much", then you "get the picture" - the same kind of picture you will get from trying to "enlarge", "zoom", or otherwise "convert" a DVD MPEG2 into a "high resolution" digital video format.

Still want your 8mm and Super 8 movie film transferred directly to DVDs?

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #6:

"You can edit MPEG2" (DVDs) - but, "not exactly".

There are many software packages out there that let you edit MPEG2 compressed video. Each will warn you about the consequences of "cutting" the video stream anywhere but on a key frame. When it comes to getting the highest possible quality out of your editing efforts, you can edit MPEG... but why would you want to -- if you had the option to work with a video format that was the near equivalent of the original movie film -- frame for frame.

Click to show or hide details:
You can "edit" using the MPEG2 format. There are a few little problems however...
  1. The video and audio sometimes do not synchronize so the final picture (of Grandmother) is not in "lip synch" with what she was saying, because of timing issues with re-compression.
    But, "You can edit MPEG2".
  2. The video colors (of Grandmother's skin and dress) tend to smear due to "transcoded" technology - changing from one MPEG2 stream to the new MPEG2 stream - replacing missing key frames and adding new delta frames as "best guesses" on the part of the encoder.
    But, "You can edit MPEG2".
  3. The video image itself (of Grandmother) tends to have digital blocks from re-compression or Transcoding.
    But, "You can edit MPEG2".
  4. The original MPEG2 images (of Grandmother) are not the same as the edited version (of Grandmother) because of the nature of the MPEG2 compression.
    But "You can edit MPEG2".

In summary, edited MPEG2 files (DVDs) have introduced both old analogue 'generation loss" and a new kind of digital "generation loss" into video (of your grandmother);
BUT, "You can edit MPEG2".
What is more, all the "old generation loss" and "new generation loss" will be introduced to ALL future generations -- of both your video (of your Grandmother) and all generations of your family - to remember you by;
BUT, "You can edit MPEG2";
and get "digital artifacts" and "audio to video" disjunction...
and you can't convert your newly edited MPEG2 files to higher resolution video formats without major digital artifacts reinforced and new ones added to your previous low-resolution digital artifacts.
But, "You can edit MPEG2".
No one will want to watch it a second time.
But, "You can edit MPEG2".

You say you want to edit Blu-ray H.264 BD. Forget it. It is like trying to edit MPEG2 -- on steroids. Some editor software -- like Final Cut Pro --  will not even load the format.

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #7:

You need a "full frame", "high resolution" digital master -- and a backup.

Let me say it another way: You need a "full frame", "high resolution" digital master that:

  1. Rivals your Original movie film (of Grandmother) with "near equivalent" Digital Images (of Grandmother); and,
  2. Allows you to migrate Original movie film Images (of Grandmother) to 'high resolution" video formats now and in the future; and,
  3. Allows you to edit and narrate your original movie film images (of Grandmother) - to preserve her memory and yours.
Click to show or hide details:
Your movie film is high resolution now. There's no reason to step back from that and accept a lower resolution digital "copy".

The purpose of a digital film transfer is to preserve those images and to expand your ability to view and make use of them. Any film transfer worth your money will:

  • Deliver resolution high enough to see your movie film as it is now -- with grain and emulsion clearly visible -- all the good, bad, and beautiful.
  • Be transportable, both from media-to-media as well as physically -- on its original media
  • Be flexible enough to be easily used, edited and re-stored on new media with no "generational loss".
  • Prevent catastrophic loss of your family memories--  by being easily duplicated and stored -- as an archive, away from your viewing copies.


Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #8:

Most Telecine Methods are VHS quality; NOT High Resolution

The telecine film transfer method used to perform your small gauge - 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm - movie film transfer may sound great at first blush. Most "retrofitted" or "upgraded" telecine "scanners"  still incorporate -- "composite video" somewhere in the "bowels" of their technology.  No matter what kind of "adapter" you slap on a "composite video signal" you still get ONLY VHS quality. Which brings us to the next...

"Dirty Little Trade Secret™": Most telecine methods were developed before the digital age and target problems inherent to older "analogue (composite) video". Much advertising today promotes technology of the past. The Dirty Little Trade Secret™ is, if you use old technology for a movie film to video film transfer, you will in fact get "the same old quality" of old technology.

If you use their older technology, then you get inferior quality for the same price you might otherwise pay for a superior quality. I know, I am in the business. I have literally put very expensive, "old equipment" --  in the dumpster - knowing it had potential for great "sales hype" but absolutely no "high resolution merit".

We use aerial scanner methods, when they are well matched to the movie film; but we reserve the right to switch to other methods that have advantages over scanning methods.

For example, movie film -- with deep scratches -- scanned at the film-plane of the actual emulsion on the film -- transfer with the image having bright white streaks (more on this later). We have a alternate capture method that will capture that same movie film with the scratches turning to neutral grey. This is "value added" by "experience" -- that a machine, by itself, can not be expected to identify, much less correct.  Most studios "good enough" to even know about this method, reserve it for their high-end "professional clients" -- never giving "domestic clients" the consideration of its use.

Click to show or hide details:
For example, a small gauge, home movie film transfer using a "telecine projector" - a movie projector with a built-in camera - uses old analogue, composite video signals. We, the public and the video industry, now regard "composite video" as a "low grade". There never was a small format movie film "telecine projector" made, that had anything but "composite video out" (VHS quality). Yet the internet is filled with "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™", that "hype or hide" their use of these old telecine projectors -- calling them digital scanners -- because they plug the composite out RCA jack into a capture card, which digitizes the garbage coming out of the backside of their "scanner".  Many of the "retro-fitted" telecine "scanners" may use modern technology, BUT they capture the image "thru" an "etched glass" or "plastic film" -- thus reducing the "upgrade", again, to VHS quality.

What film transfer mills "hide" is the Dirty Little Trade Secret™ that any resulting movie film to DVD or Hard Drive film transfer --  from an old, small gauge telecine projector -- would be the near-equivalent quality of an old VHS tape. Yet that's what they use to make their single-layer DVDs. It does not matter that they dup that same video signal onto a high resolution MiniDV tape after the fact -- or during the fact (as a synchronous product). Their video quality is still only VHS quality - which is to say, only single Layer DVD-R quality; Ok, not exactly, but close enough. "Garbage in; garbage out." Adding insult to injury, if a film transfer mill "dupes" (duplicates) a VHS or DVD quality video onto a MiniDV, then they "dupe" you as well - making you think, in error, that you have a "digital master". They call it, "a MiniDV copy" and usually offer it as an "add-on". This is akin to the "Blu-ray Scam" -- copying a DVD to a Blu-ray disc -- and charging HD prices for it -- with you assuming it is in H.264 HD format.

When you want to film transfer 8mm movie film to DVD, the Dirty Little Trade Secrets™ you don't know, really do hurt you -- and all generations of your family, and your movie film.

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #9:

Telecine Projector / Scanner / DAI - VS - Telecine Film Transfer

The term "telecine film transfer" (not to be confused with "telecine projector") is a good, legitimate movie film to video transfer term, which simply means, the frame rate of your 8mm movie film, super 8 movie film, or 16mm movie film is synchronized with NTSC video frame rates of your TV set -- without a flicker.

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Film transfer mills want you to think that you can NOT get a "telecine film transfer" without using THEIR "telecine projector" or "scanner".
The truth is, there are many ways to get a "telecine film transfer" without using their equipment.

Telecine Projectors "scan" AND "synchronize" the digital signal into a "broadcast" signal -- at the same time. Whether they "project" onto a "screen" or project onto a "camera" pixel array -- they "project" light THROUGH film -- to produce an image. Telecine projectors usually "synchronize" use a some version of a mechanical "pull-down" method -- inserting extra frames in to the broadcast stream -- that are NOT in the "original film". In small format film, this is a "big mistake" -- due to the "judder" into the "motion" of the "movie".

NOTE: SYNCHRONIZATION
does NOT mean NORMALIZATION.
Once film is SYNCHRONIZED to a video signal, the video can be re-played in a "similar to"
but NOT necessarily "TRUE to" life or the original film.

SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video is playing without “judder”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video is playing at the “right speed”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can be “easily edited”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can be re-rendered as “slow-motion”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can be re-rendered as “fast-motion”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can be “motion stablized”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can be “color enhanced”.
SYNCHRONIZATION does not mean the video can accept FX (i.e., special effects or filters).
 

True "scanners" BOUNCE light off-of an object and capture the reflecting light. 
Virtually NONE of the equipment in the "small format" film transfer industry is a TRUE "scanner" --
because the equipment "forces light" THROUGH the film.

True "scanners" are "serial line scans" -- not "parallel block scanners".  They do not "synchronize" at the same time they "scan". 

 

Equipment that is called a "Scanners" -- but use a "pull-down" method -- are actually Telecine Projectors.  Since the big "buzz" word is "scanner" -- every one wants to claim to have one. 

The old saying, "If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it is probably a duck." -- applies to Telecine Projectors.

When I see what is being sold as "a scanner", I usually see a "telecine projector".  We own both "scanners and telecine projectors" ( loosely defined) and their use is determined by
1) the condition of the film
2) the desired end product use
3) the judgment call required to satisfy the terms of our guarantee --
"Better than the original film or your money back!".

The latest "state of the art" breakthroughs in "film transfer" have NOTHING to do with the "capture" process; but have to do with integrating the moving images into a "video broadcast" stream. The effective shifts most "mechanical methods" back into last century, where they belong.

Digital Algorithmic Interpolation (DAI) has been associated with 3D rendering for a while, but a "scaled-down" version of the technology is now being used -- instead of old "pull-down" methods - to integrate digital images into a broadcast signal. It is far supperior to the traditional "mechanical" methods -- still used by most "transfer mills". For us, this is a  "proprietary" technology.

Confused? You should be. You have not read my tutorial yet. Read on!

Concerned? You really should be. If you make a decision right now, without reading my tutorial, then your odds of making the wrong decision are very good. At this moment, you would be taking a "wild shot in the dark" - with a lot of money - say nothing of risking the future longevity and integrity of your home movies.

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #10:

Dirty Little Trade Secret: A "film transfer" done at "ULTRA-HIGH, MICROSCOPIC SCAN DENSITY" - LIKE K2 OR K4 --
will DEFINITELY need "smoothing filters". Smoothing filters are, however, being "marketed" as "scratch removal services". 

LAYMAN'S DISCUSSION:

This is a nice "add-on" business for "transfer mills"; but reasonable people figure out that the "transfer mills" are
1) selling an "operation" the patient does not need, THEN
2) selling additional "solutions" -- to problems THEY, the "transfer mills" -- create!

Here is the scam...and people "ASK FOR IT"... ASSUMING that higher density video formats work the same with "live objects" as they do with "film".

I wish I could say, using "hyper-format" "microscopic" cameras -- to capture tiny 8mm film -- "gives you a better resolution", however -- after personally investment of a lot of time and a lot of money in "high density" technology -- as a Computer Scientist,  I find the opposite to be true -- for the following reasons:

Before there were "pixels", images were made up of tiny little "grains" of silver halide in the emulsion of movie film (see below).  Light passed between the grains -- literally "shapes and forms" the details in an image.

Here is the "catch"!  ONLY the "edges" of "each grain" and "grain cluster" contribute to "image detail". 

The remaining "surface area" of each grain -- or "surface area" of "clumps of grains" -- just "block the light" (see "black areas" in Figure 1 below).  NON-DESCRIPT  black contributes NO DETAIL DEFINITION to the image.

The same is true of the "open spaces" -- between grains and clumps of grains". .While contributing NON-DESCRIPT light and color information, "the wide-open-spaces" between grains -- DO NOT contribute "detail" to the "shape and form" of the image. (see "white areas" in Figure 1 below)

The "con" or "scam" is "the claim" or "your assumption" that a "microscopic" scan of your film will give MORE IMAGE DETAIL from the "black space" and the " white space" below.

The TRUTH is, "ultra-high resolution scans" INTRODUCE artifacts FROM the "detail from the grain itself" NOT "detail from pictures of Grandma". Hyper saturating the "original image" with all this "superfluous" data (called artifacts) is completely obvious to the human eye as "grainer grain" (see Figure 2 below).

Of course this brings out every "natural flaw" in you film. As a result, "transfer mills" usually "package" a "smoothing filter" with "ultra-high resolution transfers" to "cover up" their folly.  Of course, they call it a "scratch removal service" and have nice "before and after" photo "mock-ups" HOWEVER, you are advised that "YOUR results may vary...". (see Figure 3 below).

THE TRUTH is, "smoothing "bad data" (black and white areas) into "good data" (the edges ONLY)
actually DEGRADES ORIGINAL IMAGE DATA (of grandma) -- like "touching up a photo".
This prompts historically significant questions like, "Is that Grandpa?" "What happened to Grandpa's infamous wart and wrinkles?"
Of course, Grandma would love the "make-over"!

THE TRUTH is, once you can see the "grain patterns" or 'grain shimmer" in your images -- just like when you want "movies at the cinema" or "at home" -- you are seeing ALL the "image information" that you "small format film" has to offer.

Take moment to digest the illustrations below.


FIGURE 1 (ABOVE) Microscopic example of Grains of Silver Halide in a Film Image
A "Video Format" should "Best-Match" the ORIGINAL "Film Format" -- in pixel / grain densities.
A "miss-match" results in "under-kill" or "over-kill" of the original image.

FIGURE 2 (BELOW - LEFT)                      FIGURE 3 (BELOW - RIGHT)
Hyper-Microscopic VIDEO of GRAINS of Silver Halide in Film Image
An illustration of what happens in "over-kill".


Final Insult to Injury: Ultra-high resolution scans are "way far" beyond the display capability of anything you will ever own. All those millions of data points have to be "summarized" back to each cluster of RGB pixels, surronded by black -- that make up your "digital display".  What is more, many displays convert all those data points to (sit down for this) ANALOGUE.


We can provide (sell you) larger, higher density film transfer video formats, however, be advised that "hyper-formatting" -- distorting a small format FILM into a large format VIDEO -- introduces artifacts into the images of your original film -- because

TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:

1)  The "two dimensional" surface area" of each grain of silver halide (FIGURE 1 -- BLACK AREAS)  is "non-image data".
In film, this is called "grain"; In digital video, this is called a "digital artifact" or "digital noise"; and,

2) The space BETWEEN GRAINS of silver halide (FIGURE 1 -- WHITE AREAS) are also "non-image data" called light or color -- which has NO IMAGE-DETAIL -- other than "black&white" and  "color"  values; and,

3) ONLY the circumference (i.e. the edge) of each grain of silver halide (FIGURE 1 -- IMAGE-DETAIL DATA) contributes "true image detail" or "true image data" to the final image.

In simple "Expansion Theory", as an object or image expands, the area (non-image data -- Points 1 and 2 above) expands at a greater rate
than does the expansion rate of the circumference (true image data -- Point 3 above) of the object or image.
Thus in ANY analysis of "expansion" -- say analysis of expanding a tiny 8mm format to any large screen HDTV format -- there are "diminishing returns"
where the "non-image data" over-whelms "true image data" -- called a "washout"  and "fuzzy" image.

To "off-set" this "diminishing return", "Hyper-formatting" with high-density cameras (basically with microscopic accuracy) attempts to "fill" the "washout" and the "fuzz" with "grainer grain" patters.  This would be a great idea, except for the fact, the "pits and irregularities" of the grain ITSELF has absolutely NOTHING to do the original "image-details of the picture".

All this means, "gainer grain" and "more artifacts" do not make a "BETTER" picture (FIGURE 2 -- HYPER-FORMATTED GRAIN).
Transfers of tiny 8mm film with microscopic precision of 2K 4K  -- which are "microscopic' -- do NOT make a better picture.

Because of the "grain in the grains" -- which are now "artifacts" in the image -- now PART OF THE IMAGE --
Ultra high, microscopic resolution "film transfers" REQUIRE "smoothing filters".

These "smoothing filters"  blend this flood of "artifact data" into (thinly stretched) "true image data".
(FIGURE 3 -- HYPER-FORMATTED GRAINS AFTER SMOOTHING)
This gives the overall image a "flat look" -- when compared to native film "grain shimmer" --
seen when viewing film "LIVE" or viewing a "good transfer".

Transfer mills actually "mask" their "artifact distortion-correction" as a "premium scratch removal" service" --
because (along with true-image details) details in scratches are (also) subdued.

LAST BUT NOT LEAST: Movie film was designed to be "projected" NOT SCANNED.  The "image harshness" found at the granular level was subject to the "Reciprocity of Light" where light "diffuses" (mathematically)  by the square root of the distance that light has traveled. This is what gives film its "desirable" "soft" (not "flat') look.

"Hyper-formatting" is "easy to hide" because "transfer mills" also often use irregular "pull-down" scanning methods
which introduce "motion judder" -- which is so distracting -- that a "flat image" is hardly noticed. That is because it is the "lesser of the two evils".

Bottom line:
The best  8mm transfer is possible ONLY when the video format is "best-matched" to the movie film format.

SO, TO SELL "ULTRA-HIGH SCAN DENSITY" SCANS on "small format" 8mm and Super 8 film...
"film transfer mills" just plain lie about the capabilities of "Hyper-Formatting" small format film.


FOR EXAMPLE: "16mm, 8mm film transfer mills"  are NOW claiming that "discolored" footage can be magically "color balanced" and "color enhance" simply by increasing "digital scan density".  In other words, if your film has a "magenta cast" (purple-pink or Red-Blue cast) -- an "ulta-high density" digital scan, will magically transfer the resulting image into a perfectly balanced picture! 

As a Computer Scientist, this claim is perhaps that "most stupid", 'irrational" digital claim I have ever witness from the "transfer mills".

First rule of computing: "Garbage in; Garbage out".  If you put in "magenta cast" data; you will get out "magenta cast" data.
Ultra-high densities of "magenta data" do not magically translate "bits and bytes" of "magenta data" into digital "white light".
To do that -- requires "an idiot" or "a liar" -- with a "good graphic artist" -- to pull-off a convincing "BEFORE AND AFTER" example.

Any color artist knows that a simple shift on a RGB (Red Green Blue) Color Wheel, away from (Red-Blue) is enough to shift the entire "tint range" of an image  1) from "magenta" to 2) "neutral bias".

We have access to many capture processes, of different densities.  In no case has "magenta discolored" film - as seen in their "examples" --  "color corrected" itself -- solely on the merit of "scan density". 

Such claims REQUIRE "doctored photos" usually contain the verbiage, in small print, "your results may vary".

Clients send us film with "profound color shift" -- MOST OF THE TIME
; and
we can "color correct" such film with "GREAT RESULTS" -- most of the time; however,
we do NOT "sell" (or deceive) the client into purchasing a more expensive "scanning process" --
making them BELIEVE that "IT" -- not a "push on a color wheel" -- is what makes the BIG DIFFERENCE!
 

Dirty Little Trade Secret™ #11:

Dirty Little Trade Secret: While on the topic of "doctored photos", some "transfer mills" claim profound "scratch removal" techniques. 
They show a "BEFORE" photo with deep, dark" scratches from "projector burn" in on photo
and an "AFTER" photo with a perfect photo -- not one scratch.

The only problem with this "scam" is that the "scanners" they claim to use -- "capture from the film plane". 

That "means" that ALL "deep scratches" will scan as "raw, bright light" scratches -- not "deep, dark" scratches!

Just a "small technicality" -- over-looked by their "marketing department" and "graphic artist"..

My point is, a company may have "scratch removal" services, but their "service" and their "illustrations and examples" of their "service" VARY.
As such, "YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY", too...

Other "transfer mills" create "like" EXAMPLES by using "film aging filters" -- which CREATE the special effect of "dark scratches" -- on "new film".  They can even show you a "mask" of the "scratch pattern" independent of the photo itself. This is impressive, until you realize that the "mask" is actually "the filter" selected -- from many "scratch masks" -- to make the "new film look old". By simply showing you the "BEFORE" picture (of new film)  LAST, and the "AFTER" picture (of the superimposed scratches) FIRST, they can "mock-up" a nice "example" of "scratch removal. The only problem is that the "scanners" they TOO -- transfer film "from the film plane" -- also resulting in "raw, bright light" scratches, TOO!

OF COURSE, YOUR "scratch removal" RESULTS MAY VARY -- TOO!

Especially, if all they really do, is use a "wet-gate"!
A wet-gate system works by transferring the film "wet" -- or actually "damp".  The "wetting solution" works by "filling" the scratches and "diffusing" or "blending" the scratch into the image -- on EITHER SIDE OF THE SCRATCH. The "smaller and shallower" the scratch, the better a "wet gate" works.  HOWEVER, there are situations -- with antique footage -- where a wet-gate can damage film or diffuse the image at large. Also, wet-gate "wetting solutions" -- which "lubricate, wet, and extend film life" -- tend to be "EXTREMELY TOXIC" -- to the PRODUCER,  CLIENT, and ENVIRONMENT.  

HOPE ON THE HORIZON:  The phantom "8mm scratch removal" technology is not "total fiction".

"Infrared Cleaning"
is a successful technology on "slide film" but has not yet found its way into the 8mm movie film world.  Reportedly, it does not work well with many "antique" film stocks. Reportedly, scratches have to be on the 'correct side" of the film to work, which implies that scratches on the "wrong-sided" are interpreted as part of the image.

"Inpainting"
is a "post-product" process -- in the experimental phase for video. This process could would need to be implemented AFTER "frame capture" and  BEFORE "synchronization" -- and "when" available would be "very expensive". It could be "cost effective" for short clips.

Scratch Removal is a "post-production" process (after the film transfer) -- offered by many "post-production" studios.  Theoretically, YOU CAN DO THIS, TOO. There are a variety of filters that can "reduce" scratch patterns, but the process is labor intensive and expensive. 

Most clients feel "scratch removal" ALSO REMOVES a "historical mystic" from "old films" -- which was "part of the experience" of watching "old home movies".

Even our "commercial clients" prefer the "old look" -- and will pay "good money" to put "bad scratches" -- or the "special effect" of "bad scratches" -- superimposed on "perfectly good" film captures.

Finally, a "film transfer" done well, with "wet-gate", and matching the format of the film to the format of the video format "may not" need "scratch removal service" -- in the eyes of the beholder.

A "film transfer" done at "ULTRA-HIGH SCAN DENSITY" will definitely need scratch removal services.

Until "scratch removal" becomes 1) a cost-effective "reality" -- we prefer to save clients both the "expense" and "false hope" --
of what the "transfer mills" now seem to promise.

We would rather "ban" the words, "YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY" -- from this website!

And yes, we use a "wet gate" system...when it is appropriate --
and yes, we know when NOT to use it -- when it will damage your film!

It is  "cheaper" and "safer" for someone to sent "master clips" to "post-production" studios -- to see what they can "really do";
especially if the graphic arts department -- of companies to whom they send "clips" --
are using "dark scratches" on their "scanner mock-up" of "sample and examples".

 

Example of our video and music.
Example Video of my own home movies.
This is a 4.5 megabyte file in QuickTime format. It's not a perfect example, mostly because it's been compressed very heavily so it can be downloaded easily. Click here to view the video.
Click on the QuickTime button to download a free copy of QuickTime Player -- for Mac or PC. It is an nice tool to add your computer for viewing video.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OUR BUSINESS MODEL-- VERY IMPORTANT:

Dirty Little Trade Secrets are NOT revealed by only a  technology or technique used, but also by the "business model" that a company uses. We can only disclose our business model as a "leader in the industry", and let you contrast our "business model" within the context of Dirty Little Trade Secrets you are about to read about.

"WE ARE A REFLECTION OF OUR CLIENTS"

Just as you seek the highest level of service, we seek the highest level of client.
We believe that clients and companies -- of the same level of integrity -- seek each other out. 
With a “Thankful” heart, the following is our integrity level:

Find out:  Why we never needed to do "test reels".
 

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We have already "proven ourselves" (see above) with some of the oldest and the most valuable, “legendary” films in the world -- produced for national broadcasters and private investors. Because we have achieved this level of success and quality, demand for our services is usually sold 3 to 5 months in advance -- from clients who feel our quality is worth waiting for.  And, we have been sold in advance for over 10 years, now.

We produce a "branded product" that both I and our staff are proud to "put our names on".  My name on a product, over the years, has become a Trademark of Quality. We do not perform third-party domestic film transfers -- knowingly; however, other studios sometimes pretend to be a client, pay "retail prices", then stripping off our graphics and replacing them with their studio name -- and resell our work as their own.  I guess this is a compliment -- of sorts.

Clients have actually used our service to "get their money back" from other studios -- who (used to) offer a money back guarantee IF AND ONLY IF another studio could redo the same film "better". Having basically "paid for their project twice", whether of not they ever got their "money back"--  none of these "redo clients" ever asked us for their money back, and, to date, are among some of our most gracious clients. Through this "redo" process, over the years, we have become familiar with the work of many major film transfer companies that surprised -- and disappointed -- even us. Thus the need for Dirty Little Trade Secrets™.  Since we have "redone" their dirty little work -- we know their dirty little secrets!

As for our own work, we must decline many requests for quotes once we have reached 5 to 6 month mark in advanced sales.  Due to demand,  we simply do not have a need to do "test reels" for domestic clients; and due to our reputation, our new commercial clients do not ask for 'test reels".

Ironically,  the integrity of our  "business model" is in fact -- "like" a continuous stream of "test reels" -- backed with a money back guarantee!

Our business model – has always protected our clients by
1) affording our clients approval of our work – in stages (now on DVD), on their own equipment -- before they make final payment(s); and
2) backing our work with guarantee of 100% money back -- if any stage of our work is not “better” than the original film.

Despite our longer delivery times (because of our multi-pass methods) and our higher prices (compared to the "same-day film transfer mills"), the most ardent critic must conclude the quality of our work is reflected in our clients’ pleasure. After waiting for our work, after approving each stage of our work, and then, after paying for our work -- in stages -- no client has ever request their “money back” -- something we have always put in writing.

These criteria are sufficient to attract "the level" of clients – in both quality and quantity -- that I enjoy “working with”.

At this time, we are accepting new clients and their projects. We invite you to entertain the idea of adding your project to our list of accomplishments and clients -- by requesting a price quote for your project. We also invite you to read our unsolicited testimonials. Most people take several days to read this site. Getting your request for a price "out of the way" now, you may have a quote by the time you finish "absorbing" what is being said, and you can be ready for your quote -- with "informed questions" for me -- knowing the price of your project.

Upon your request for a price quote, I will be sending you a quote assuming in good faith that, as our client, you are a good match for the level of our accomplishments. We hope, we may have “the pleasure” of serving you – to an end – we are confident – will be your pleasure, too.

THE LEADER

IN THE SMALL FORMAT MOVIE FILM TRANSFER INDUSTRY:

We are not just a “movie film transfer” studio.  "Film transfer" is only a minor step in our multi-step service.

We are multi-disciplined specialists in

1) Small Format Antique Movie Film Repair, and
2) Digital Film Transfer of Antique and Damaged Movie Films, and
3) Post-Production Digital Restoration and
4) Post-Production Digital Enhancement and Re-colorization, and
5) Digital Format Transcoding, and
6) Physical Media and Virtual Packaging, and
7) Mass Media Distribution & Webcasting.

Perfection in first stage is amplified by perfection in successive stages – making our final product “better than the original”. Over-riding a “state-of-the-art” machine with “knowledge-of-the-art”, is known as “value-added judgment”. This “value-added judgment” is what a jet pilot brings to a state-of-the-art jet -- that can literally fly itself – until it is disabled by a flock of geese and forced to land in a river.

Answers about equipment and techniques we use --
that put us in a "different League".

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We prep your movie film, then capture it digitally, then enhance the images, and then re-color the images in your movie film – in a work flow from one technology to another – getting to know your movie film -- “what it is” -- but also knowing -- “what it can be”.

We actually have "meetings" about your film - passing on information and production notes about the previous stage -- so that the next stage will be "the best it can be". 

This “value-added” – or added value – added stage by stage -- to the exceptions and problems in your very old and very worn original images, is the reason I can guarantee your final product will be BETTER THAN YOUR ORIGINAL MOVIE FILM – better than what ANY "competitor's" single-pass machine – run by someone living -- to punch-out for a break, lunch, and the end of a boring day.

Baseball as an Analogy for Quality:
 
Regarding equipment, in a "Major League" Service, we offer "Client-Film Centered Services" -- where WE make the call on what is best for the client's film -- ONLY AFTER we see the film.. Our clients are only interested in "home runs" -- WITH THEIR FILM -- not "the bats we use" to hit the ball. Reading the film -- the film itself -- dictates what machine or process should be used.

Little League "armchair" clients -- read equipment reviews -- of "Little League" film transfer "mills", to determine the "best equipment" for their film -- when in fact, they can not even determine what gauge their film is,  if their film has "vinegar syndrome" or not,  if it is even  "SOUND FILM"  or not.

They have no clue as to what shrinkage their family films have after 50 years, much less 70 years, nor the degree of "projector burn" the surface of the film may have developed. They have no clue as to whether the splices in their film are "tape" or "press tape" or "glue" or "hot glue" or "abutted" or "overlapped" -- say nothing of having a clue as to "how tired" the splices in their film are. These clients are NOT in our league. 

 
"Little League" services are "Equipment Centered Services". One size fits all -- in one pass -- on their "magic machine".  They sell "levels of "consumption" -- with "de-grades" or "up-graded" -- in "favors" or "colors" -- assuming "all film is the same".  They believe1927 film has the same needs as 1972 film. No matter what is actually "best" for the film. We redo "little league" -- "equipment centered" work -- all the time.

SINCE WE "REDO" THEIR DIRTY LITTLE WORK -- WE KNOW THEIR DIRTY LITTLE SECRETS!

For example, any company bragging their equipment offers "pull-down patterns" are actually warning the public that they have adapted a piece of equipment from the "large format" movie film industry -- which (they do not tell you) will introduce "judder" (irregular extra frames) into a "synchronized" "scanned" image.  We trashed that technology -- long ago -- when we realized, both in theory and practice, "NO PULL-DOWN PATTERN" IS APPROPRIATE FOR ANY SMALL FORMAT FILM -- originally shot slower than 24fps. More later.

MAJOR LEAGUE WORK: We have "the technology" -- to capture "the grain" ON "the grain" in film --  and it works great on new, or "like new" film; however, many "scanning methods" also give you "raw light" though the scratches in old film. (Do you have scratches in your film?) With "OLD FILM" we must adapt -- or even switch scanning -- methods -- to alter the "raw white light" into "neutral grey light". That is just one "little" difference in our service.  We do not hold ourselves, or client interests -- their film -- captive to a sales pitch -- or a piece of equipment. We are NOT in that "League" of service. Our League is "Client-Film Centered Service".

Most companies, who would elevate their image by calling themselves, “our competitors”, simply are not in our "League". Ours is the league of “hard work”, “long hours”, and “commitment” to exceed "our own personal best".

In our League,  the argument for quality, "my bat is bigger and thus better than your bat", is the argument of "little league".

That “we lead” and “they follow”, is our quiet pride at the end of a day’s work.

THIS IS OUR "SALES PITCH" -- TO ATTRACT THE LEVEL OF CLIENT WE SEEK:

As part of our list of accomplishments, we are equally proud to have preserved images - of the American Family. Yes, we have done “private work” for families whose names are internationally recognized; but we treat our domestic clients' home movie film as no less valuable than any of the above.

In truth, your films are an important part of a much larger story of "the extraordinary" -- the ordinary men and women  and children -- of this, our, great nation of families -- who have repeatedly risen to the challenge -- to become the unsung heroes -- of every war and peace and economic tribulation and natural disaster:

AND YOUR FILMS are PART of the uncensored record of what really happened during the Golden Age of America; and YOUR PART -- your "life and times" -- deserve PRESERVATION for YOUR future generations to likewise say, "This is PART of who I am!"

Because of "our" guarantee, our “added value” (see below) and the way we do business, we routinely have pre-sales roughly 3 to 5 months in advance -- from clients who feel our quality is worth waiting for.  Proof of their satisfaction is their many letters of thanks; repeat business, referrals -- and, the one letter we have NOT received -- for all my years in business – a letter asking for a refund.

This honor, given to us from clients past, is the foundation of our commitment to you and your movie films.  This honor – something freely given to us -- something money can not buy --  is the only requirement for true "competitors" to be “in our league” -- and thereby welcomed. This honor is "our" true honor -- to serve you, too.

If your heart can swell with pride, knowing you are in the company of so many of our clients like yourself, then we invite you to join our League of Clients.

Highlights and Updates
(Just in case you missed these points...)

1) Film transfer "mills" would simply rather you not know the longevity of a writable DVD (DVD-R and DVD+R) is only 2 to 5 years. In Dirty Little Trade Secret™#1 (above) , I show the research which proves this later. Blu-ray can be argued to be "like" DVD in sharing this chemical longevity property. DVD and Blu-ray discs are NOT an "archive worthy" media, based on longevity studies. Most people have their 8mm movie film, Super 8 Movie Film, and 16mm movie film transferred ONLY to DVD -- and many of these people, sadly, purchase only 1 DVD set -- wrongly assuming it will last "forever".

2) Film transfer "mills" would rather you not know that, in a "direct" movie film to DVD film transfer, MPEG2 -- the format of all DVDs -- actually throws away up to half the data (resolution) of each and every frame of your original movie film -- in order to "compress"-- or "crush" --  the visual data to fit onto a DVD. Speaking of DVD compression...

Film transfer "mills" would rather you not know that a direct movie film to DVD film transfer 1) throws away up to 20% of "whole frames"  and 2) substitutes 80% "partial frames" for most of the "full frames" your original 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm movie film. MPEG2 is NOT an "archive worthy" format.

Most people would turn violent if anyone took their 8mm movie film, Super 8 Movie Film, and 16mm movie film and started "stripping it down" and cutting frames; but digitally, that is exactly what a "direct" movie film transfer to DVD does digitally -- leaving what is left to start "dropping out" of the physical DVD after roughly 5 years.

Film Transfer "mills" would rather you not know that both DVD disc and the video format of DVDs (MPEG2) are NOT "archive worthy". So why are YOU wanting to "archive" images from your 8mm, Super 8 movie film, and 16mm movie film to DVD? Did not know that you were "asking for it"?  Well you are-- when you demand (with your money) a "film to DVD" transfer -- and NOTHING ELSE! And "your demands" get worse! Much worse!

3) The concept of Digital-Film™ and a Master Archive™ file structures is not even theoretically possible with a DVD or Blu-ray disc. 

Digital-Film™ Master Archive™ files -- is our digital video product that is -- frame-for-frame -- the digital equivalent of "every frame" of your 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm movie film. This product is something transfer "mills" don't want to talk about -- because they can not create products that come close to the equivalent of your original movie film. More on this MOST IMPORTANT of all archive concepts later.

4) Film transfer "mills" would rather you not know "the Dirty Little Trade Secret™" that highly compressed MPEG-2 files can be copied from a DVD onto a Blu-ray disc, in a scam to sell you a "fake" HD product. Because the Blu-ray standard is "backwards compatible" with the DVD standards, your Blu-ray player will play it -- thinking it is a "strange" DVD,  I will tell you how to catch this scam -- easily.

5) As for HD, for HDTV, movie film transfer "mills" would rather you not know that a direct movie film transfer to AVCHD video format (a play-only format) -- is now a standard procedure for HD film transfers. AVCHD severely limits and cripples video editing, which results in profound generation loss --  "crushing the video" -- when rendering edited sections. Other "Super 8mm Film Transfer Mills™" transcode AVCHD into "any format you want" -- like ProRes -- which just enhances artifacts.

Film transfer "mills" would rather you did not know that AVCHD format video, is a "play only" format, is also a "very lossy" format -- which is miss-matched to the capture of  - your original "small format" Standard 8mm, Super 8, and 16mm movie film.

6) Film transfer "mills" would rather you not know that they "push" amber (colored) tinted discs -- deceptively as "archive gold"  type DVDs and Blu-rays  -- the most expensive media in the world. Then, they load them with the worst, degraded, least usable, and most highly compressed video formats -- money can buy. Time then reveals these "amber tinted" - with the word "gold" somewhere in their name -- are no better than generic discs.

To arm yourself with pertinent knowledge, please read through the tutorial.

You can also contact us for a price quote or to ask questions.

   

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