Dirty "Film Transfer" Secrets: Super 8mm Home Movies Color Movie Film Transfer for HDTV
"BUYER BE AWARE to be a BUYER BEWARE™"
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Most 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) DO NOT want you to know that DVDs have an unexpectedly short shelf life of 2 to 5 years. Their whole production process of "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ " focuses on the use of silver-dye based DVD-R technology -- and nothing else -- to archive your movie films -- just like you ask.
Remember "pitted" DVDs are very different that "dye-based" DVD. A "pitted disc" is made with tiny, physical holes etched into a platter.
Dye-based disc utilize "spots" or "discolorations" on the surface of a light-sensitive platter -- that "look like" holes. The use of silver in DVDs is very similar to the use of silver in movie film. Unfortunately, the "stabilization" of discs is NOT as good as the stabilization of movie film. Over time, sections of the disc "change color" -- due to "photo-decay" -- as new spots form and old spots disappear. This "photo-decay" is the subject of "longevity studies" on this page.
When I say "archive", I mean, "To store ALL of the original image, of each and every frame of the original image -- for a long, long, time."
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) will put your home movies on DVD or even Blu-ray disc -- that will "photo-decay" -- doing exactly what YOU ASK!
What they don't tell you -- YOUR RISK -- is criminal, in my opinion.
Unless there is a "master digital
video file' -- in a safe place -- to be used to create a new discs -- then
the old DVD disc WILL BE LOST --
to Study: Unfortunately for the public, the ONLY "archive worthy"
medium is still "evaporated metal tape" (i.e., digital tape -- MiniDV
and HDV tapes). To date, this "conclusion" has NOT been revised.
The average person does not (know to) ask for what they needed --
Clients need an "archive". An "archive" is a "long term" concept -- spanning decades -- versus the "short-term" ideas of a "backup" or a temporary "transport medium" -- less than 5 years for video data and 2 years for computational and ASCII character data.
The very integrity of CD-R, DVD-R (and, we can assume Blu-ray) technology -- which are chemically very similar -- has been challenged by media experts worldwide. Some experts -- like Kurt Gerecke, a physicist and storage expert at IBM Deutschland GmbH -- are now reporting that the life of some optical media (CD-R and DVD-R) to be only 2 to 5 years.
These statements are clearly backed by longevity tests on "dye based" platter technology -- CD-R, DVD-R and DVD+R -- conducted by the National Institute of Standards and Technology. Results showed that failure rates for dye based DVDs with silver backing (originally thought to have a long life) were far worse than anyone had realized.
The fall-out from this study is that Computer Industry and the Federal Government -- have ditched DVD-R, DVD+R, and CD-R -- and NOW Blu-ray Disc -- for "archiving" any type of digital data or digital imagery. (see reference below-right).
Do not confuse "backups" with "archives". A client of ours who is a government employee provided us with the links above; and he says that some government agencies -- including the Library of Congress -- are now giving caution to their employees on the use of silver backed dye based optical technology for "archives".
Does this warning extend to Blu-ray discs?
The "assumption" by "sales people" -- That Blu-ray "is better", in
terms of longevity is odd, in my opinion, in light of the traumatic
effect of longevity studies on DVD discs -- made from very similar
materials as Blu-ray disc. If we follow logic, instead of some sales
pitch, we are forced to form both the opinion and assumption -- that Blu-ray
disc longevity is "like" DVD disc longevity. For all practical purposes,
a Blu-ray disc may be "more like" a DVD -- only with a Blu-ray label --
too, much like a DVD -- too much more -- than we would "like" to think
-- or, for that matter, more alike than the disc manufactures would "like us to think".
As a result, of "too much thinking in the market place", the disc manufacturing industry has developed an "archive gold" type technology, which claims varying longevity thresholds, with some giving themselves as high as a 200 year longevity rating -- or your money back -- with proof of purchase and ID, of course;(
As of June 2011 -- before gold went through the roof in price
-- the cheapest "archive gold" type Blu-ray disc, that could be
purchased on the Internet, cost $15 plus the cost of shipping, roughly
$5 dollars -- for a total "low price of $20 each. Bulk purchase could
reduce that to as low as $15 each, after shipping. My point is,
"archive gold" is expensive -- especially when you must consider waste
from "bad-burns", "failed burns", "power outages" -- waste that is
always associated with the duplication process -- for any number of the
most "dog-gone" reasons. This factor puts "archive gold" expenses right
up there with the cost of (more forgiving) Flash Drive, SDHC card, and
hard drive prices.
Near-substitutes and Alternative Technologies and Strategies:
Given the fact that prices for hard drive technology has plummeted over the last year, you can now buy a 500Gb hard drive for roughly the same cost of buying 3 or 4 "archive gold" type Blu-ray discs -- which will store only 25Gb each.
In the ComputerWorld warning -- on the use of CD-R, DVD-R and DVD+R for "backups" -- corporate wisdom is to "back up" your "backups" every 2 years -- for data -- and every 5 years for digital images, like videos and pictures. As for "archiving", their word of wisdom was: use nothing but metal particle magnetic digital tape for an archive -- and keep at least one "archive backup" of that.
What they did not address, what the 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ don't tell you, is the fact that all video data -- expressed as a "video format" -- is NOT created equal; that in fact, some video "formats" are crippled by design and "very lossy" -- like MEPEG-2, the default format of a DVD.
It is silly -- say nothing of expensive -- to use "archive gold type" technology -- to "archive" low quality video.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST: The Blu-ray Scam
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) don't tell you this one for sure. The victim in this scam thinks s/he is buying a High Definition (HD) Product Blu-ray product for an HDTV -- but instead pays a premium price for a "fake" Blu-ray.
The Scam: The 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) take a DVD -- using MPEG-2
format -- and copies the MPEG-2 disk image onto to a Blu-ray Disc. This
is fast and easy to do. Since Blu-ray technology is backwards compatible
with DVD technology, the MPEG-2 video "plays just fine" -- when plugged
into a Blu-ray player. The Blu-ray disc -- with DVD quality video -- is
then sold to the victim as a "Blu-ray" disc.
Reducing all this information to a point -- once people know "the truth", they are reluctant to buy an expensive "archive gold" type disc to "archive" lowest grade video formats -- or even to "set themselves up" for a Blu-ray scam. Knowing "what to ask for" is second only to, knowing "who to ask".
Do you still want you movie films "archived" -- to ONLY -- an "off the shelf" DVD or Blu-ray?
What can do we do?
We can capture your movie film, as raw video, into a format best matched to your films needs -- like Apple ProRes, DVCPRO, DVCPRO HD, Digital Video (DV). All these formats are 1) full frame for all frames, 2) higher resolution than the resolution of your original movie film, and 3) used in editing software on 64 bit, multi-core, state-of-the-art PC and Mac computers. Using one these formats, after Re-Colorization of the images, we then make Blu-ray and DVD Virtual Movie Disc ™, and then, physical discs.
What can YOU do?
Some people find they have to buy a new computer -- just to work with some of the formats above. What is more, because "family members" do NOT have computers that WILL also work with some of these video formats, some of these same formats are a "bad choice" as a "master video archive format" because they can NOT be passed to the next generation. I cover the pros and cons of formats -- and "best-matching" a film format to a video format -- later.
NOTE: DV, DVCam digital video format are all basically
the same format.
What is confusing for many consumer, is that DV "format" -- instead
of "contained on tape" -- is most often "contained" in a "container
file" -- also called a "wrapper file" -- like Quicktime (in a .mov) file
or in an AVI file. The "container file" simply adds a 'header
record" to the video file -- to tell your computer "what is inside". The
confusion is due to the fact that ANY VIDEO FILE can be inside the
"container file" -- even VHS or "composite" video.
NOTE: Newer Camcorders -- using SDHC cards and AVCHD format -- can
NOT satisfy these criteria --
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™:
When you "pay" to have a DVD made "correctly" -- form your 8mm to DVD or
Super 8 Film Transfer --
you are ALSO paying to have both
1) a Video Master File made and
2) a "DVD disc image" made.
The Resulting CON and the Damages Follow: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
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By "defacto law" -- in my opinion -- in purchasing a DVD, you have
purchased 3 products:
If you are "denied" or if you are "not offered" YOUR "Video Master
Files" -- which you PAY to have made -- to make your DVD -- "the right
Note: It is possible to make a DVD "the wrong way" -- which is
profoundly inferior to "the right way".
The "RIGHT WAY" to create a DVD follows:
WAY" to create a DVD follows:
Be careful what you ask for!
In other news, here is what you NEED to be looking for -- as you "shop the transfer mills"...
A "Good" Film Transfer
will ARM YOU with THE BEST of this decade's technology
(for future enjoyment -- and state-of-the-art enjoyment now):
1) Video Home Movies Player-Drive™ drives -- using state-of-the-art DISC-Free™ Disc-IMAGES™, solid state drives, HHD, and more, CAN Store, Play, Copy, and Burn up to 5 different DVDs (5 hours) from a -- tiny memory card or flash drive -- Archive and Play -- EVERYTHING -- (including master video files) on your USB Hard Drive -- Video Home Movies Player-Drive™. My Tutorial-Helper shows you how you can duplicate both these Video Home Movies Player-Drive™ archive drives -- for every family member -- and they can do the same -- in turn -- for generations to come. A true Digital-Film Archive Solution.
2) Social-Media™ Master-Files that U-Edit&Play&Upload™ -- in H.264/MPEG-4 -- for YouTube, Facebook, etc.: and,
3) Digital-Film & Primal Master-Files -- the digital equivalent of your original film -- only better.
A "Good" Film Transfer should ARM YOU with THE BEST of last decade's technology (for enjoyment NOW -- as long as you WANT to use them):
1) DVD Physical-DISC™ -- -- that U-Play&Copy™ - "Rendered -- NOT Ripped"™ -- the highest video density that the DVD format specification will allow.
2) Blu-ray Physical-DISC™ - that U-Play&Copy™ - "Rendered -- NOT Ripped"™ -- the highest video density for HDTV - a True H.264HD; and,
3) (optional) Digital Video Primal-Master™Tape (MiniDV) that U-Edit&Archive&Copy™ (optional) -- There is a saying in Computer Science,
Hard drives "go fast" but Digital tapes "go the distance".™
A Film Transfer should ARM YOU with Pay-as-YOU-Approve -- In-YOUR-Own-Home -- DVD Preview Plan -- with a money back guarantee.
A Film Transfer should
ARM YOU with 1) One-time for All-times, 2) True-to-Life, and 3) True
to the Original Film -- Film Transfer
of your Movie Film.
This means your film transfer should be "True-Life Speed" and "True-Life Motion" -- which are NOT the same thing. More later...
In a nutshell - here are a few "highlights" of what you are about to learn.
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™:
(Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
"Disk Image" technology -- on "solid state" media and via the Internet -- like Netflix, and iTunes TV, etc. -- is swamping the physical DVD disc and physical Blu-ray disc industry. Just like the CD "music" disc industry disappeared over-night, the DVD and Blu-ray "DISC" industry is quickly fading away.
One example is
the Digital Movie Cards™
(DMC™) -- "disc image" movies on a read-only "memory card". Wal-Mart recently made a huge DMC™ commitment involving the VUDO
products (more later).
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
Making "DVD Disc Images" is an expensive process for "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)".
Most of Film Transfer Mills "rip" your Home Movie DVDs through a "VHS grade video input jack" onto a "consumer grade" DVD recorder -- which is an inferior, second-generation, analogue video signal (more later). Even if you "pay" for an expensive "video master file" -- to make your DVDs, if the DVDs are "ripped" from this "master file" -- instead of "2-Pass Rendered" -- you will actually see far less viewing quality than is actually on your master video file. "Ripping" is popular at "film transfer mills" because the video signal can be "split" (and diluted) -- several ways -- to make "several" video products at once. Sometimes, the "master file" and the "DVD" are made "synchronously" -- from the "more expensive" video capture machines. This is "good" for the "film transfer mill" profits -- "bad for you and your videos".
Single Pass DVD Rendering: "Sub-standard" DVD rendering. Quality is about the same as "ripping". The DVD video does come directly from the "master video file"; however, ALL partial frames are determined "on-the-fly" and "predictive" frame calculations are very limited or by-passed. This type of "rendering" was actually developed for "quick and dirty" management reporting -- "to show the boss" -- "how much" video production had be completed at the end of the day. This kind of "rendering" was NEVER used to evaluate "quality -- at the end of the day". It was NEVER intended for "end user" viewing.
2-Pass DVD Rendering is a High Quality Render -- only if calabrated correctly. This 2-pass render 1) scans the video master file to determine -- which clips are fast action and which clips are stable, which frames of video are to be "duplicated", which frames are to be "predictive", and which frames are to be "partial". Then,2) in a second pass, the rendering engine "creates" the absolute "best" video for each and every clip of your home movies.
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to Film Transfer of
ONLY Super 8 and 8mm film only) :
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for), are "hyper-formatting" tiny little 8mm frames of film to huge, super large digital video formats -- 2K and 4K -- to boost sales and to "make you think" you are getting extra quality -- that is NOT in your tiny film. What they do NOT tell you, is there is ONLY so much "image information" in a "frame" of early century 8mm or even 16mm film -- with "mechanically milled" silver-halide. Miss-matching the "film frame" to the "video format" actually introduces "artifacts" -- not in the original film. Most Consumers can NOT even "play" over-sized video formats -- but must watch them as a "compressed", "extremely lossy" "ripped video" on DVD or at best on Blu-ray.
NOTE: We sell THOUSANDS OF DVDS AND BLU-RAYS EACH YEAR --
we do not sell them as "digital archives".
The following also applies to 16mm Silent film, originally shot at 16fps: and16mm SOUND film, originally shot at 18fps.
Until I can re-write this section, I ask you to "connect the dots" between 8mm and 16mm film formats... thanks.
NOTE: EARLY CENTURY 16MM FILM (sound and silent) are considered "small format" films for 2 reasons"
1) the "speed" -- 16fps silent, 18fps sound; and,
2) even though the "size of the 16mm frame was bigger",
3) the "sized of the silver-halide grain was much bigger" then - because the grains were "mechanically milled" back then.
NOTE: If you have modern "synthetic 16mm sound", then we are the wrong service for you.
NOTE: Domestic 16mm SOUND was shot at 18fps -- just like Super 8. Commercial 16mm SOUND was shot at 24fps. We can produce BOTH, however, MOST 16mm SOUND we get is "early century" SOUND (optical and magnetic) shot at 18fps. As we use DAI -- not "pull-down" methods -- we give clients a "digitally superior" version of both. Assume 16mm SOUND -- on this website -- refers to the "harder" to capture 18fps sound -- but keep in mind, we do both -- without irregular mechanical "pull-down" methods.
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) do NOT want you to know they transfer Regular 8mm film and Super 8mm -- at the same speed -- 20 fps -- on the same "telecine machine" (Ditto for 16mm film - silent and sound): It saves 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ time and money. See the chart to the left -- for correct speeds. What they do NOT tell you -- this "speed distortion" is almost 20% faster than the Regular 8mm film was originally designed to be viewed. That means that for every HOUR of your Regular 8 film, you loose 12 minutes of "real time" viewing time. Say nothing of your images "moving too fast"
(Ditto for 16mm film - silent).
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.) 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) transfer Super 8 film at 20 fps. But Super 8 was meant to be "watched" at 18fps. What they do not tell you, is for every HOUR of Super 8 film you own, they rob you of about 6 minutes of "real time" viewing time. If you send them 4 hours of Super 8 film (240 minutes), you will only get back 3.6 hours (216 minutes) back! Say nothing about your film running 10% too fast (Ditto for 16mm film - sound)..
Transfer Secret™: (Applies to Film Transfer of Super
8, 8mm film, and 16mm film only)
:Synchronization AND REAL-LIFE™ Naturalization™ ARE 2 VERY DIFFERENT THINGS -- NO "TRANSFER MILL" TALKS ABOUT.
Synchronization ONLY MEANS that images of the film have been "forced to fit" a "video signal -- without "flicker".
Synchronization does NOT MEAN "without JUDDER" and does NOT MEAN without "real-time distortion".
Synchronization does NOT mean that images move at "Real-Life Speed™" nor have "Real-Life Motion™"
means a film transfer has both "Real-Life Speed™"
AND "Real-Life Motion™"
You can have "Real-Life Speed™" and still have "judder".
You can have "Real-Life Motion™" and still have 10% to 25%"Real-Time™ Distortion™".
"SYNCHRONIZATION-ONLY" CREATES "Real-Time™
IN THE "ATTEMPTS" of "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" TO ACHIEVE REAL-LIFE™ Naturalization™, they use "insert duplicate frames" using "irregular pull-down" patterns. With "small format film", "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" always INTRODUCE "MOTION JUDDER" -- a "staggering" effect within the moving image.
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) just forget to talk about ALL this. More on this later...
Instead, they "re-focus YOU" on "hyper-formatting" film to ridiculous,
"microscopic" video formats -- capturing the "grain on your grain".
(Please excuse me for typing too loud -- i.e., using caps -- as this stuff gets me upset -- on your behalf)
Dirty Film Transfer
Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
Most 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) process
Super 8 and Regular 8mm film as if they were "the same" -- at 20 frames per
In fact, Regular 8mm film was "shot:" at 16 fps (i.e., fps = " frames per second") and Super 8 was shot at 18 fps
The difference between "transfer speed" (20fps) and "original speed" (16fps) is a "real-time distortion" of 125%!
The difference between "transfer speed" (20fps) and "original speed" (18fps) is a "real-time distortion" of 112%!
1) Super 8 and Regular 8mm are two very different film types of film AND
2) they require very different types of film transfers.
"8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" SAVE THEMSELVES A LOT OF TIME AND MONEY with this Dirty Film Transfer Secret™ -- at your expense!
More about what you need to know - later...
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)If you send 30 minutes of "film" -- for film transfer -- you should get at least 30 minutes of "video" back!
Dirty Film Transfer
Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)
Because they send you LESS VIDEO back -- using a 20 fps -- 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™
(giving you just what you ask for) charge you for the "length of your
FILM" NOT the "length of your video" (Ditto for 16mm film - silent and sound)..
GENERAL RULE (to spot a "true" "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (because "YOU ASK FOR" an 8mm to DVD or Super 8 to DVD "film transfer" -- and a LOT more!): A "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ " NEVER quotes prices in "real time" or "finished hours". They quote "by the foot".
All our quotes are in terms of "real time" (hours) of your finished video.
Film Transfer Secret™:
Digital Algorithmic Interpolation (DAI),
for the first time in the history of "small format film", you can now view VIDEO --
from your Super 8 and Regular 8mm movie film (Ditto for 16mm film - silent and sound)
1) At the same speed at which it was originally shot -- "Real-Life Speed™"
2) With the "fluid motion"-- "Real-Life Motion™"
No more "judder"; No more "real-time distortion"
from "telecine projectors" or "2:3 pull-down film scanners"!
Digital Algorithmic Interpolation (DAI), allows "post-production" options
1) "true slow-motion",
2) "true fast-motion",
3) "better incorporation of special effects",
4) "digital frame stabilization", and
5) less video generational loss -- when transcoding to a diverse number of digital products - from a common master file.
This degree of "professional grade" post-production digital video manipulation
has NEVER be available to "small film format" clients -- before now. (Ditto for 16mm film - silent and sound)
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)want you to believe that old "telecine equipment" is "state-of-the-art".
Antique16mm film and 8mm film (shot at 16fps) should NEVER be film transferred with irregular "pull-down patterns", yet many 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) sell "pull-down patterns" -- to "synchronize" their transfer -- as part of their "premium" film transfer service.
Why? Because many "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" buy discarded "24fps EQUIPMENT" -- at pennies on the dollar -- and then modify it to accept "small format film".
To throw you "off-track" with this equipment, they mount oversized 2x and 4x cameras in these machines -- to "make you think" they offer something "new and better". The TRUTH IS, their technology is NOT new and their results create artifacts which are NOT in the original film!
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to Film Transfer of Super 8, 8mm film, and 16mm film only)
Since most 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) -- mechanically inserting "extra frames" -- with "pull-down" methods -- into the video stream -- create "judder" -- they also "profoundly limit" YOUR post-production options -- because of these same machines.
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)Some 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) give "consumers" a "choice of machines" -- to "hang themselves".
This "choice" removes liability for a "quality film transfer" FROM THE "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" -- and lays "quality of the film transfer" squarely -- and legally -- upon the shoulders of their "consumers".
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™: (Applies to any 16mm, 8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer.)These "8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for)" make promises -- in writing - of "better" than the "original film", but
1) they do NOT back their claim -- in writing - with a "money back guarantee"; and
2) they do NOT offer -- in writing - "in home" evaluation of their work -- before YOU PAY.
NOTE: "Motion Judder"
in the video image --
1) can never be removed,
2) it profoundly limits any "post-production" special effect or speed adjustments,
3) gives some people head-aches and eye strain; and,
4) ONCE YOU NOTICE IT, it is forever a visual irritation.
5) People pay us to "re-do" their projects -- just to "get rid of motion judder".
Dirty Film Transfer Secret™ (Re: Film
Transfer of Super 8, 8mm film, and 16mm film only) :
8mm to DVD & Super 8 Film Transfer Mills™ (giving you just what you ask for) will tell you "judder is normal" -- and accepted "industry wide".
The truth is, "film scanning" technologies -- with 2:3:2:3 interlaced OR 2:2:4 progressive scan "pull-down" technology -- WERE discarded "last century"!
Yes, I have THE ARCHIVE SOLUTION to these problems! AND YOU CAN HAVE IT, TOO!
I will give you a solid strategy for both a great "film transfer" and "preservation" of you your "Digital-Film Archive"
If you have read this far, you NOW realize the last thing you NEED, is your 8mm film, super 8, or 16mm film transfer -- on ONLY a DVD!
You "ain't read nothing yet". To arm yourself with pertinent knowledge, please click here for Page 2 of Dirty "Film Transfer" Secrets™ of the Super 8, 8mm, and 16mm film transfer industry.
You can also contact us for a price quote or to ask questions.
A FEW QUIPS TO HELP YOU REMEMBER:
For "Writable" DVD discs:
"Data dies in the dye™ -- long before the metal matters!™"
"Dye is for DATA; Metal is for MARKETING™"
"YOU may BUY the gold; but YOUR DATA PAYS for the dye (die)!™"
Bottom Line: "Once you burn the DVD, it is 'Dyeing™'"
"Burning a DVD -- Buries a DVD™" -- in 2 to 5 years!
"A few choice words can paint a thousand pictures!™" -- all by Bruce Mayfield
You may use these quips as long as you link the quips to my site
and give me credit for the quips.
NOTE: We are upgrading this website
THIS SITE HAS ERRORS AND OMISSIONS:
Please, e-mail me with Correction Notices or for Clarification -- on conflicting information.
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